Xtreme Aquaristika......još samo jedan akvarijum...

Malawi Cichlid Sketches

2012-01-06T23:41:00.012+01:00

Here are several Malawi cichlid genus sketches I came upon several days ago.

Some new photos

2012-01-06T22:51:00.014+01:00

I haven't write on my blog for quite some time now, the reason for this is that my job and other obligations take so many time from me so that I simply cannot find suitable time and power in me to write.

I hope, and believe, that in 2012 I will have a little, just a little more time for my fish and my satisfaction spending time with them.

I know that you understand how it is and that you will not be mad at me...

Here are some new photos, made today and yesterday. Hope you like them as much as I do!

With respect

Alexander

ENG Altolamprologus Calvus

2010-05-26T22:53:00.002+02:00

Scientific Name:	Altolamprologus Calvus
Species Authority:	(Poll - 1978)
Common Name:	Pearly Compressiceps, Pearly Lamprologus, Calvus
Synonyms:	Lamprologus Calvus
Habitat:	Found in rocky areas, particulary the reef-like structures in the lake, Sumbu National Park, Zambia, Tanzania, Moliro, Lake Tanganyika Please click here for detailed map.
Environment:	Benthopelagic. Rubble / rock littoral
Strata:	Bottom - Middle
Size:	Up to 15 cm for males, females up to 10 cm
Lifespan:	Up to 11 years of age
Diet:	Carnivorous
Social Behaviour:	Territorial, sedate and sometimes shy. Can be mildy aggressive towards conspecifics
Difficulty:	Species for advanced hobbyists
Variants:	White Calvus, Black Calvus, Ink Fin, Yellow, Zebra, Black Pectoral Congo...
Resilience:	High, minimum population doubling time less than 15 months

Red List Status:	Near Theatened (NT) - harvesting (like hunting or gathering), cultural / scientific / leisure actvities, regional / international trade, water pollution affecting habitat and/or species, sedimentation For more information, please click here.

Preferred Water Parameters
General:	Hard and alkaline as with Lake Tanganyika water
pH:	7.8 to 9.1
KH:	14 to 20
GH:	12 to 20
Temperature:	23 to 25 °C


Possible Tankmates
Neolamprologus, Lamprologus, Lepidiolamprologus,Cyphotilapia, Greenwoodochromis, Tylochromis, Gnathochromis, Julidochromis, Synodontis, Sandcichliden...


ABOUT ALTOLAMPROLOGUS CALVUS

General Information:
Altolamprologus Calvus fish are physically similar toAltolamprologus Compressiceps except that Calvus have longer, shallower and extremely laterally compressed bodies, and have no scales on the forehead between the eyes, while Compressiceps are deeper bodied and with shorter snouts . They have tiger-like stripes that are more pronounced on the head upto where the pectoral fin is. They also have brilliant white to silverish spots that are almost well distributed from the pectoral fins to caudal or tail fin. Their laterally compressed bodies allow them to catch even the smallest prey such as crustaceans and fry from the narrowest cracks or crevices in the rocks. With their large mouths, they can produce a powerful suction force that draws the prey in. They are slow-growing but it's worth the wait - given good conditions, they grow up to be stunning and are ideal to a Tanganyika tank setup. This is due to the fact that they tend to mind their own business. Altolamprologus Calvus is not that difficult to care for so long as it is given the standard Lake Tanganyikan water parameters. Altolamprologus Calvus are relatively quiet and slow moving. Similar to Cyphotilapia Frontosa, they do not tolerate quick and super active species much, like the ones of genera Tropheus and Mbuna complex from Lake Malawi. They have strong and thick scales that protects them from aggressors or egg-guarding cichlids. You will see them only bend and tilt and normally keep their place and expose their thick scales when another fish tries to attack. The attacker then loses interest and goes away. Sometimes, because of the strong scales, the attacker backs away with an injured or frayed mouth. Altolamprologus Calvus are fierce hunters. They will glide smoothly through the water while looking for prey. As soon as the target is identified, their focus locks unto the prey, they raise their bodies a bit upwards, then they strike - darting towards its prey almost faster than the eyes can see. In the aquarium, they are normally seen swimming in the middle or the lower level of the tank. Dither fish are also good in the tank as it seems to make them more comfortable making them go out in the open quite a lot. I have seen my young Calvus join my schooling dither fish in my Lake Tanganyika tank.


Suggested Tank Setup:
Although Altolamprologus Calvus can easilly be kept in a tank of 60 to 75 liters, a roomy tank with stone and rock structures to form a lot of caves, niche and crevices, with sand,fine gravel or coral sand substrate should be provided. Suggested tank size is at least 180 liters. Shells would be great addition to their tank and would work great for breeding setups. They can be kept in a species tank and is also ideal for a community of Tanganyika cichlids of the same size and temperament. Altolamprogus Calvus can also be kept in pairs or colonies. Hiding places are important for this species as males can become overly aggressive towards females during mating. Some hobbyists would recommend adding PVC pipes, pots or "Boester Bells" to provide refuge and breeding spots to this species. Altolamprologus Calvus are sensitive to abrupt changes in water conditions and new water, so as much as possible, the replacement water should be identical with that of the tank's. Good aquarium covers should also be provided because Calvus are precise jumpers. If you have enough space in your tank, combine an appropriate sized external filter (mechanical and biological) with a good internal filter. This will allow you to alternatively change filters when necessary (leaving one filter in while the other one gets cleaned) during water changes, avoiding taking out too much nitrifying bacteria. As mentioned above, these fish are sensitive to water pollutants. Make sure your tank is completely cycled before introducing your Calvus to their new home. Avoid too much turbulence in the water.


Feeding:
Altolamprologus Calvus will eat most fishfood like flakes, freeze-dried, frozen and live food. A good combination is recommended in keeping these fish, and to provide suficient nutrition to bring the female into breeding condition. They prey on fish eggs, small fish or fry and even invertibrates in the wild. Although eating small fish, such as juveniles and shell-dwellers, rarely happens in the aquarium, caution must be taken, as they still might end up to be Calvus' dinner. It is important to know that Altolamprologus Calvus are not as aggressive when it comes to food as the other Africans cichlids. Special care is recommended to aquarists to ensure that these fish get enough food to properly support their slow-growth and to avoid stunted adults.


Breeding:
Altolamprolgus Calvus are both substrate and cave spawners. In the wild, they will use shells, caves or tight openings in rocks. Since they are slow-growing, it can take two years to grow from 2.5 cm to sexual maturity size (around 6 to 7 cm for the female). Sexing is diffucult in juveniles. When they reach their adult size, males get significantly larger (about one-third) than the females. Fully mature males also have noticeably more elongated finnage and are higher bodied.When they reach their sexual maturity, they will begin to form pairs. A temperature of 25 to 27 °C is ideal for breeding. During spawning, the female will usually select a cave with a narrow entrance only big enough for her to enter, keeping the male out. The male will release his semen only by the entrance. Both the male and female will then fan their fins to direct it to the eggs, which have been dropped on the substrate. The female will fiercely guard the eggs. The male can be seen guarding the surrounding territories. The eggs are yellowish-green and will hatch in two days with a water temperature of 26 to 27°C, and in about 8 to 10 days, the fry will be free swimming. The fry can be fed with Artemia nauplii (newly hatched brineshrimps) or with Cyclops nauplii. It is required to have frequent water changes in rearing the young ones. As mentioned above, one must take into consideration their sensitivity to changes in water conditions. Altolamprologus Calvus are very secretive spawners. It is not a rare situation that the actual spawn is overlooked or is missed by hobbyists. Altolamprologus Calvus can be bred in pairs or in harems (1 male to 4 females seems to have the highest success rate). Some hobbyists would also suggest a harem of two or three males and three to five females in the tank.

Altolamprologus Compressiceps

2010-05-26T22:49:00.003+02:00

Scientific Name:	Altolamprologus Compressiceps
Species Authority:	(Boulenger - 1898)
Common Name:	Compressed Cichlid, Comps
Synonyms:	Lamprologus Compressiceps, Neolamprologus compressiceps
Habitat:	Endemic to rocky bottoms of Lake Tanganyika. Burundi, Congo, Tanzania, Zambia Please click here for the detailed map.
Environment:	Benthopelagic. Rrubble / rock Littoral
Strata:	Bottom - Middle
Size:	Up to 15 Centimeters
Lifespan:	From 8 to 10 years of age
Diet:	Carnivorous
Social Behaviour:	Territorial but peaceful towards tank mates of similar size. Can be mildly aggressive towards conspecifics
Difficulty:	Species for advanced aquarists
Variants:	Red Fin, Black, Black Pearly, Goldhead, Gold Zambia, Karilani Gold, Mabilibili Orange, Red Bulu Point
Resilience:	High, minimum population doubling time less than 15 months

Red List Status:	Least Concern (LC) - habitat loss / degradation (extraction, fisheries, subsistence, infrastructure development, transport)

Preferred Water Parameters
General:	Hard and alkaline as with Lake Tanganyika water
pH:	7.8 to 9.0
KH:	14 to 20
GH:	12 to 20
Temperature:	24 to 26 °C


Possible Tankmates
Neolamprologus, Lamprologus, Lepidiolamprologus,Cyphotilapia, Greenwoodochromis, Tylochromis, Gnathochromis, Julidochromis, Synodontis, Sandcichliden...


ABOUT ALTOLAMPROLOGUS COMPRESSICEPS

General Information:
Altolamprologus Compressiceps are closely related toAltolamprologus Calvus. Although often confused with each other, they have morphological differences.Compressiceps are deeper bodied and with shorter, turned up snouts and have greater arched backs, while Calvus have longer, shallower and extremely laterally compressed bodies, and have no scales on the forehead between the eyes. Comps' tiger-like stripes are also more distinct and their spots are less noticable compared to Calvus. Like Calvus, Comps are generally predators. Their laterally compressed bodies allow them to catch even the smallest prey such as crustaceans and fry from the narrowest cracks or crevices in the rocks. With their large mouths, they can produce a powerful suction force that draws the prey in. They are slow-growing but it's worth the wait - given good conditions, they grow up to be stunning and are ideal to a Tanganyika tank setup. This is due to the fact that they tend to mind their own business. Altolamprologus Calvus is not that difficult to care for so long as it is given the standard Lake Tanganyikan water parameters. Altolamprologus Compressiceps are relatively quiet and slow moving. Similar to Cyphotilapia Frontosa, they do not tolerate quick and super active species much, like the ones of genera Tropheus and Mbuna complex from Lake Malawi. When it comes to cichlid fights, most Altolamprologus species tend to be more on the defensive side. They have strong and thick scales that protects them from aggressors or egg-guarding cichlids. You will see them only bend and tilt and normally keep their place and expose their thick scales when another fish tries to attack. The attacker then loses interest and goes away. Sometimes, because of the strong scales, the attacker backs away with an injured or frayed mouth. Altolamprologus Compressiceps are fierce hunters. They will glide smoothly through the water while looking for prey. As soon as the target is identified, their focus locks unto the prey, they raise their bodies a bit upwards, then they strike. In the aquarium, they are normally seen swimming in the middle or the lower level of the tank. Dither fish are also good in the tank as it seems to make them more comfortable making them go out in the open more often.


Suggested Tank Setup:
Although Comps can easilly be kept in a tank of 60 to 75 liters, a roomy tank with stone and rock structures to form a lot of caves, niche and crevices, with sand or fine gravel substrate should be provided. Suggested tank size is at least 200 liters. Shells would be great addition to their tank and would work great for breeding setups. The tank should have large open swimming areas. They can be kept in a species tank and is also ideal for a community of Tanganyika cichlids of the same size and temperament. They are best kept and bred as pairs, but can also be kept as a colony. Hiding places are important for this species as males can become overly aggressive towards females during mating. Some hobbyists would recommend adding PVC pipes, pots, "Boester Bells" or "Compressiceps Caves" to provide refuge and breeding spots to this species. These fish are highly sensitive to water pollutants. It is important to have regular water changes. Some hobbyists perform 50% of the tank water every week. With this amount of water to change, it is important that the replacement water is identical to that of the aquarium water. If you have enough space in your tank, combine an appropriate sized external filter (mechanical and biological) with a good internal filter. This will allow you to alternatively change filters when necessary (leaving one filter in while the other one gets cleaned) during water changes, avoiding taking out too much nitrifying bacteria. As mentioned above, these fish are sensitive to water pollutants. Make sure your tank is completely cycled before introducing your Comps to their new home. Avoid too much turbulence in the water.


Feeding:
Altolamprologus Compressiceps will eat most fishfood like flakes, freeze-dried, frozen and live food. A good combination is recommended in keeping these fish, and to provide suficient nutrition to bring the female into breeding condition. They prey on fish eggs, small fish or fry and even invertibrates in the wild. It is recommended not to combine Comps with small fish, under 8 cm, as they will likely be mistaken for food and consumed. It is important to know that Altolamprologus Compressiceps are not as aggressive when it comes to food as the other Africans cichlids. Special care is recommended to aquarists to ensure that these fish get enough food and nutrients to properly support their slow-growth and to avoid stunted adults.


Breeding:
Altolamprolgus Compressiceps are both substrate and cave spawners. In the wild, they will use shells, caves or tight openings in rocks. Since they are slow-growing, it can take two years before they reach their sexual maturity size (around 6 to 7 cm for the female). Comps are not strongly sexually dimorphic. When they reach their adult size, males get significantly larger (about one-third) than the females.When the female is ready to spawn, she will choose a place among the rocks (either a cave or crevice) to lay her eggs, with a narrow entrance only big enough for her to enter, keeping the male out. The male will then release his semen only by the entrance. and the eggs, which have been dropped on the substrate, will then be fertilized. The female will fiercely guard the eggs. The male can be seen guarding the surrounding territories. The eggs will hatch in two days with a water temperature of 25 to 28°C, and in about 8 to 10 days, the fry will be free swimming. The fry is difficult to rear and needs regimes of small water changes twice a week to grow properly. As mentioned above, one must take into consideration their sensitivity to changes in water conditions. The fry can be fed with Artemia nauplii (newly hatched brineshrimps) or with Cyclops nauplii. Like Altolamprologus Calvus, Compressiceps are very secretive spawners. It is not a rare situation that the actual spawn is overlooked or is missed by hobbyists. Altolamprologus Compressiceps can be bred in pairs or in harems of two or three males and three to five females in the tank.

ENG Cyphotilapia Frontosa

2010-05-26T22:45:00.004+02:00

Scientific Name:	Cyphotilapia Frontosa
Species Authority:	(Boulenger - 1906)
Common Name:	Frontosa Cichlid, Frontosa, Fronts, Humphead Cichlid, Tanganyikan Humphead
Synonyms:	Paratilapia Frontosa, Pelmatochromis Frontosus
Habitat:	Endemic to the sloping lake bottom off shore in Lake Tanganyika. Widespread throughout the lake from Burundu down to Zambia Please click here for detailed map.
Environment:	Benthopelagic. Deep waters of the lake generally found at a depth of up to 50 meters, Sandy and rocky parts
Strata:	Bottom - Middle
Size:	Up to 35 cm for males, females up to 25 cm
Lifespan:	More than 25 years
Diet:	Carnivorous / Piscivorous.
Social Behaviour:	Territorial but gentle and tolerant. Lethargic, slow-swimming.
Difficulty:	Species for advanced aquarists
Variants:	Geographic: Burundi, Kigoma, Bulu Point, Mpimbwe, Samazi, Kasanga, Chaitika, Kapampa, Kavala, and Zaire. For a detailed description of their differences, visit the Frontosa Variant Map from Cichlid-Forum.com.
Resilience:	Medium, minimum population doubling time 1.4 - 4.4 years

Red List Status:	Least Concern (LC) - harvesting (like hunting or gathering), cultural / scientific / leisure actvities, regional / international trade (future) , water pollution affecting habitat and/or species, sedimentation (ongoing)

Preferred Water Parameters
General:	Hard and alkaline as with Lake Tanganyika water
pH:	7.8 to 9.0
KH:	14 to 20
GH:	12 to 20
Temperature:	24 to 27 °C


Possible Tankmates
Neolamprologus, Altolamprologus, Lamprologus, Lepidiolamprologus, Greenwoodochromis, Tylochromis, Limnochromis, Julidochromis, Synodontis, Cyrtocara moorii from Lake Malawi.


ABOUT CYPHOTILAPIA FRONTOSA

General Information:
Cyphotilapia Frontosas are one of the most beautiful and intelligent cichlids available in the hobby, and are considered as the "King of Lake Tanganyika". Their basic physical features are: white bodies with 6 or 7 vertical black bars (depending on race or variant); and a varying shade of blue in some parts of the body - particularly on the face and fins - sometimes replacing some of the white. They are monomorphic with little difference between the genders or sometimes none at all. Adult Fronts, both male and female, develop a large protrusion called a nuchal hump on the frontal lobe as they mature or increase in size. The hump is made up of fatty tissue that rests on a dorsal muscle that extends forward. These gentle and slow-moving cichlids are lethargic piscivores. In the wild, they don't exert much effort or energy in hunting. They are semi-nocturnal feeders and they don't need much light to wake up. So at dawn, when all the other fish decend to rest and settle on the substrate, Fronts are still out there to collect them by a mouthful seemingly effortless. Cyphotilapia Frontosa live in large groups or colonies in the deep portions alongside the coastline of Lake Tanganyika. They like to swim in the open and only seem to seek security in caves during breeding or when threatened. Because of the depth of where they dwell in the lake, they are used to high pressure. Similar to the "Diver's Disease" or the "Decompression Sickness", Frontosas, when collected, they have to be brought to the surface in stages. Otherwise, they suffer from extreme emission of gasses from the blood circulation and may cause the bladders to rapture because of the rapid decrease in pressure. Fish that may survive a drastic ascension to surface would end up getting "The Bends" or with a swim bladder problem. Despite their robust handsome appearance and sedate behaviour, they can easilly be spooked off. They do not tolerate quick and super active species much, like the ones of genera Tropheus and Mbuna complex from Lake Malawi. Like the Altolamprologus species, Cyphotilapia Frontosas are slow-growing. It normally takes 3 to 4 years before juveniles reach sexual maturity. Good diet and water condition are always pointed out by hobbyists to support a healthy growth process. In their native land, Frontosas are considered a delicacy and serve as one of the major sources of protein for the local people.


Suggested Tank Setup:
Cyphotilapia Frontosa are really large fish. As mentioned above and adult male can grow up to 35 cm while a female can grow up to 25 cm. It is therefore recommended that the minumum tank size should be 100 to 110 liters for one fish. These fish can be kept successfully in small groups (1 male / 3 females) but they are more comfortable and are better kept in larger groups. A group of 8 to 10 adult Fronts can "comfortably" be housed in tanks of at least 500 liters. The larger your tank is, the better. Suggested substrate for Frontosas are: sand, fine gravel or coral sand. A couple of caves should be provided as the male will definitely need one for a sense of security. Females normally do without caves but should at least have a "ground" territory. The caves can be made of clay pots, lace rocks, or PVC pipes. Make sure they are smooth and that the structure of your caves do not form sharp edges. Fronts are easilly spooked and would dash clumsily towards their niche. One of my Frontosas got spooked ones and destroyed the thermometer. These fish are also very strong, so make sure that your rock formations are stable or are anchored well. If not they may end up hurting themselves badly, or worse, crack the tank. A combination of an appropriate sized strong external filter/s (mechanical and biological) and a good internal filter is very beneficial for the Fronts. These fish can be sensitive to water pollutants and changes in water conditions and can produce large amount of wastes (also due to their size). A good amount of water circulation is necessary to filter the wastes. Having two or more filters also allow you to alternatively change filters when necessary (leaving one filter in while the other one gets cleaned) during water changes, avoiding taking out too much nitrifying bacteria. It is very important to diffuse the water pumping into the tank as Frontosas do not like too much turbulance in the water. And since they normally spawn in the open (but secluded spots), the quality and quantity of the males' sperms released on the substrate may be reduced due to too much water movements. Cyphotilapia Frontosas like to swim in the open, so it is necessary to provide a good amount of space as a swimming area in their aquariums. They also prefer dim lighting. Salt can also be added. Nora H. Ferara suggests some specifications in building your Frontosa caves: "This cave should be high enough for the male to rest comfortably without lowering his dorsal fin and wide enough for a female to visit, side by side, when she is ready to spawn." - Source: Frontosa.com


Feeding:
Although Fronts will eat almost anything you put in the tank, they are primarily piscivores. In the wild, they prey on Cyprichromis species. It is important to consider this in their diet. Some commonly suggested food are: feeder fish, krill, adult brineshrimp, black and/ or blood worms, earth worms, silver sides, mysis, shrimp, live, frozen or freeze-dried. In addition, they can be fed with spirulina, pellets, granules and flakes to provide them sufficient nutrition in their growing stages and to bring them into breeding conditions. Since feeder fish is a good part of their diet, hobbyists suggest breeding your own "feeder-guppies" or the like. Feeder fish and other live food normally sold in mass in pet shops are cultured in foul water. They can be sick and/or can carry parasites and other fish diseases that may be harmful to your Frontosas' health.


Breeding:
Cyphotilapia Frontosas are mouthbrooders and harem spawners. They are not sexually dimorphic. Males usually are larger and develop largers humps than females, but this is not always accurate. The most reliable sexing is done with venting together with behavioural observation. Sexing juvenile Fronts is almost impossible. Frontosas are slow growing species. It takes 3 to 4 years before they reach sexual maturity. When they are ready, an alpha male, in most cases, will be the largest in the group. He can also be the shyest among the Fronts in your tank. When sexually active, males often turn blue / bluer, especially in the snout region. The females egg tubes, on the other hand, will be protruding. The males can also be seen swimming closely to the females. The spawning is not very active. It happens, approximately, every two to three months. It usually does not involve shaking, flashing colours, wagging of tailfins, or sparring. It starts with the male selecting a spot in an open area where he will release his sperm, folding its fins while he glides throught the substrate. The female will then pass through the same spot (and almost the same manner as the male) and drop her eggs. She backs up, usually without turning around, and picks the large eggs up. This will continue until she has vented all her eggs out. The whole spawning can last from 10 to 15 minutes or longer, depending on the amount of eggs and/or interruptions going on in the tank. The female will then hold the spawns for approximately 5 weeks, usually not eating during the duration. The eggs will be incubated for about 4 to 5 days. If the eggs were not fertilzed, they will begin to dissolve in 3 to 4 days. When the fry are free swimming, they will start to emerge. Brood normally amounts from 20 to 50 fry or even up to 80. These tiny fronts are not so tiny at all and will measure around 1.3 to 1.5 cm long. They can already be fed with Artemia and Daphnia and some flakes. The female will still accommodate the fry in her mouth, especially when threatened, for about two weeks more. After the female abandons the fry, it is recommended to move them to their own grow-out tanks. Small fish under 6 cm are considered as food by adult Frontosas. Cyphotilapia Frontosa fry can be difficult to rear and needs regimes of small water changes to grow properly. As mentioned above, one must take into consideration their sensitivity to changes in water conditions when preparing their replacement water. A lot of patience is required in keeping and breeding these gentle giants, but it is surely worth it, as they will reward you with stunning and majestic sights in your aquariums, as well as brood after brood of healthy fry.

ENG Lake Tanganyika

2010-05-26T22:10:00.004+02:00

Lake Tanganyika is one of the last still unseen underwater environments in the world.

More than two hundred species of fascinating fishes, which most of them are endemic, crabs, shrimps, jellyfish, sponges, mussels and clams, all inhabiting a huge isolated freshwater tropical environment since millions years ago at Africa's heart make this unique lake a true inland sea.

Its complex and intriguing fish communities are considered to be the most remarkable among the submersed environments on Earth.Geological preview model predict that African Great Valley will split the continent in two half. Such colossal process started millions of years ago, and will finish millions of years after our days. But meanwhile, nowadays a huge fault house a large chain of three major lakes (Victoria, Malawi and Tanganyika) and a number of minor ones, being thus the most evident proof that something is breaking under Africa’s heart.

Lake Tanganyika is the deeper (1.430 m) and longest of them all and it is estimated that 20% of surface freshwater on earth lies on it.

Some age estimations say that the lake could be as old as 20 million years, which would mean Tanganyika could be the oldest lake in the world. Because of such a long existence, exclusive aquatic communities have developed in there and nowhere else in the world making lakes depths a unique submersed universe.

Being never connected to the ocean, today’s Tanganyika live assemblage seems proved to be the result of a colonization process from surrounding river systems. Geological activity should have connected and disconnected surrounding rivers to the lake as time goes by. Also water level changes through millions of years, should have participated on the speciation process and thus, on today’s living scenery by means a long isolating mixing cycle.

Despite its exclusive biodiversity and biological value, lake’s underwater nature have reached attention among conservationist social agents worldwide and paradoxically ,most of the knowledge background and advertising about its amazing submersed realm have been developed by aquarist whose are in one way or another involved in today’s degradation. All aquarist must realize that Lake Tanganyika is much more than a Pet Shop! Its life is great sparking treasure full of biological, environmental, economical and esthetical values still to be discovered and hopefully protected from destruction.

However, due to its difficult access, political instability of surrounding countries and high illness risk, the lake and its living treasure is still virtually unseen.

One single fish family, the cichlids, that bound as aquarists together in one family, conquered Tanganyika at one time in the distant past , and nowadays more than two hundred species of that amassing group have occupied all corners of the lake, from the water level to the depths , from the rocky bottoms to the open waters. Every cave, hole or even small shell is a good place for a cichlid to hide in and live in it.

Tanganyika fishes also have developed the ecological roles in the same way marine ones do. Thus some of them are open water silvery fast predators as tunas, others behave like ambush chasers and groupers, many others graze on the algae gardens over the stones as wrasses, and others filter the sand as mullets.

Parallelism with marine life is maybe one of the most intriguing features of Tanganyika’s living communities. But, as a matter of fact, lake was never been in touch with the ocean…

However, nowadays very serious threats are flying over this unique environment. Over fishing pelagic resources (Tanganyika sardines) nowadays virtually uncontrolled ornamental fish collection, deforestation of surrounding lands and an increase riverside human population are mortgaging lakes biological treasure.

All of you aquarist that keep or intend to keep Tanganyika cichlids as your pets, please be aware that what you have in your house is something special and you should give them all necessary conditions that they need to feel, in a way, like they are in their home lake.

If you are the beginner, ask some one to help you either someone in your community either on some internet forum, there is plenty of them on the net, to tell you what your new pet need, because all living creatures need something to be “live happily”.

My idea is to help everyone that I can as much as I can. I cannot do to much, but if every hobbyist make a small contribution in education of new hobbyist we can make something good, we can, in a way make a difference.

ENG Test with 50 different aquarium lights

2010-05-26T14:51:00.015+02:00

On photos below you can see the difference between specific lights in aquarium.

There are 50 different combination's and perhaps you will find the one you like the most for your tank.

As you can see they are all used for the same tank so you can without any doubt see the difference!

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Na slikama dole možete videti različita osvetljenja akvarijuma.

Prikazano je 50 različitih kombinacija, možda Vam se neka od njih svidi i primenite je u svom akvarijumu.

Kao što vidite sve kombinacije su izvedene na istom akvarijumu tako da možete jasno videti razliku.

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ENG Correct Lighting for the aquarium

2010-05-26T13:38:00.003+02:00

Correct Lighting for the aquarium

It should (hopefully) be a matter of general knowledge that providing the right care for the particular species of fish or animal in an aquarium is inseparably linked with the care of the living plants if you have them in your tank. Many Cichlid tanks have no plants in it, but for all those that keep some plants foloving article should be interesting.

Such plants must, of course, be true “aquatic” plants or at least plants which are naturally at home in marshy ground and are therefore adapted to surviving in water. Pathetic, sickly house plants, which are still sometimes to be found on sale, can never produce the same invaluable benefits as healthy, flourishing plants in an aquarium.

In order to be able to thrive, plants not only need the right nutrients but also energy in the form of light.

Photosynthesis

One quite unique process is responsible for the special benefits which living plants bring to an aquarium, a process which other living organisms lack - photosynthesis. In photosynthesis, plants use the energy of light to synthesise sugar and other carbohydrates from CO2 and water.
Sugar and carbohydrates make up the main components of plant mass. Oxygen is produced as a waste product, to the benefit of the fish. It is this process which is responsible for the oxygen in the earth’s atmosphere, providing the essential conditions for animal life. The chemical “factory” in which this process takes place is the green colouring of leaves, known as chlorophyll.

We know, in the meantime, that it is not chlorophyll alone that is responsible for the life and growth of plants, rather a pigment system made up of a balance of several different pigments which all contribute to chlorophyll. In the course of evolution, plants have developed this complex pigment system to adapt to the prevailing light conditions, i.e. sunlight.

For this reason, the quality of aquarium lighting should be as similar as possible
to sunlight in order to provide the best growing conditions for plants. Only flourishing plants are capable of providing fish and other living creatures in the aquarium with vital oxygen, breaking down nitrates and phosphates, providing hiding places for fish and reducing germs, to name but a few of the positive effects of healthy plant growth in an aquarium.

Before we examine the light requirements of plants in greater detail, some basic
principles of the phenomenon of light. The term „light“ is usually taken to refer to the section of the overall electro-magnetic radiation emitted by the sun which is visible to the human eye and is referred to as „white light“. This section includes the wave lengths from 390 to 760 nm (nanometers), bordering on infrared in the upper range and ultraviolet in the lower. If white light is beamed through a prism, it is separated into its spectral colours, a phenomenon which is familiar in the form of a rainbow.

The spectral colours range from violet to blue, green, yellow, orange and dark red.As everyone knows from their own observations, light at sunrise and sunset is redder, i.e. seems warmer, than during the day, when light seems to have a cooler, bluer tone. This is referred to in physics as the colour temperature, measured in Kelvin (K). The warmer the colour impression, the lower the colour temperature. The cooler the colour (the more pronounced the blue shades), the higher the colour temperature.

In the course of a day this can range from 2500 K (sunrise / sunset) to 8000 k (midday).

Light for plants

All the text books on botany and plant physiology state that chlorophyll, the
green colouring of leaves, has two maximum absorption peaks - in the blue and
orange-red spectral areas. The belief that plants mainly require blue and red light for optimum growth has stemmed from this.

This has lead to the popularity of the widely known and commonly available lamps with strong elements of red and blue shades which bathe an aquarium in an unnatural, candy-coloured light. This light has the “advantage” that algae, that unwelcome acquaintance of all aquarium-keepers, thrives under these conditions. Algae is particularly good at making use of precisely this spectrum of light.

The fact that plants have other pigments in addition to chlorophyll has been overlooked. These pigments interact in a complex system and are capable of utilizing light from the whole spectral range for growth. The individual spectral colours are not the only influence on photosynthesis, other factors play a decisive role e.g. vertical and horizontal growth, leaf colour, leaf size, to name but a few.

The plant spectral curve according to ELGERSMA, a result of experiments on numerous types of plants, clearly shows that all spectral colours of visible light, without exception, contribute to growth. The plant spectral curve corresponds approximately to a colour temperature of 3500-4000 K, which represents the average of the daily cycle of sunlight almost exactly. After millions of years of adaptation to sunlight, nothing else can really be expected. Lighting for an aquarium containing plants should therefore correspond as closely as possible to this plant spectral curve i.e. include the full spectrum with a colour temperature of approx. 3500-4000K. Light containing too much red will lead to overlong growth, whilst light with over-strong blue tones will cause squat growth.

Algae

The main topic for any long-suffering aquarium-keeper is unsightly algae, which
usually grows far faster than the plants. Literature is full of recommendations for
curtailing this troublesome growth. One of these is: place the aquarium as far away as possible from natural daylight. Anyone who experiments a lot with different shades of light learns to his cost that the plants need a certain length of time to adjust to each new lighting shade, (some never succeed and die). During this period of weak growth, the algae surges ahead.

As a “lesser” plant form, algae use the same process of photosynthesis, in principle, as higher plant forms. They also have several additional pigments in order to be able to utilize the whole width of the light spectrum.
However, the pigment system of algae is considerably simpler in construction and is able to adapt more swiftly and easily to changes in the spectrum of light than the more complex pigment system of higher plants. For example, if daylight shines on an aquarium which is illuminated by a light that has gaps in its spectrum (e.g. three strip tubes, HQL), the plants have difficulty adapting their complex pigment system to the full spectrum of daylight. The algae are much faster to adapt and win the race. However, if an aquarium is lit with light which includes the full spectrum of daylight, any daylight shining on the aquarium can
be immediately utilised by the plants and algae has no advantage. It goes without saying that the other measures taken to care for the aquarium must still be aimed at restricting algae growth, e.g. by maintaining low nitrate and phosphate levels in the aquarium water.

Advantages of T5 tubes

T 5 is the latest development in the fluorescent tube sector. The new tubes are much more compact (only 16mm diameter) and give a far higher light yield than conventional fluorescent tubes in T8 technology. Compared with conventional tubes, T5 tubes provide 150% light yield with only approx. 30% more energy consumption. Using appropriate reflectors the light yield can be doubled again!

Due to the narrow diameter of the tubes, (16 mm) more T5 tubes can be used per area than T8 tubes. This advantage is used to the full in suspended lights. In this way the fluorescent tubes provide a higher level of light density than was previously possible. As a result, aquariums which require a great deal of light, such as marine reef aquariums or Japanese-style plant aquariums, can be illuminated with fluorescent light at low energy costs. A further advantage is that less heat is produced than by HQI lamps, and the initial purchase costs are lower, too. Another advantage is the fact that T5 tubes have double the service life of T8 tubes or HQI lamps.

The nominal service life of T5 tubes is approx. 20,000 operating hours, which corresponds to about 4 years under average aquarium operating conditions.

As a gradual spectral shift takes place right from the beginning of the service life
of fluorescent tubes, coupled with a slow loss of efficiency, it is recommended to replace T5 tubes after 2 years´ use in the interests of the plants and animals, (one year in the case of T8 tubes).

T 5 tubes reach their highest light output at a higher ambient temperature than T8 tubes. T 5 tubes can only be operated in special lamp holders or lamps (covers) with electronic ballast and suitable fittings. The electronic ballasts
ensure silent running without the annoying hum which often occurs with T8 tubes with conventional ballasts.

4.000 K - Full spectrum of light

- Standard lighting for exceptional plant growth

- Spectrum and colour temperature of 4000 K ideally meet the requirements of aquatic plants

- Colour temperature of 4000 K corresponds to the average colour temperature
of sunlight over the course of a day, or of light at approx. 10.00 a.m.

- Provides ideal conditions for photosynthesis through full spectrum light, strongly inhibiting the growth of algae.

- Best colour reproduction through 1A colour reproduction index (very good). Shows the full beauty of the natural colouring of plants and fish.

9.000 K - Daylight tube with full spectrum for freshwater and marine animals

- Full spectrum with best colour reproduction through 1A colour reproduction index (very good): fish, invertebrate animals and plants are presented in their full, natural beauty.

- Fresh, slightly blue light with colour temperature of 9000K, corresponding to
the light at midday on a sunny day in a tropical region.

- Promotes growth of higher marine algae and corals in saltwater through full spectrum light, simulating sunlight, with a colour temperature the same as that found in shallow water in the natural habitat.

- Best possible light for fish and plants from sun-drenched waters e.g. rainbow
fish, cichlids from Lake Malawi and Lake Tanganyika. Simulates light in shallow water in the natural habitat.

- Provides ideal conditions for photosynthesis through full spectrum light, simulating sunlight, and strongly inhibiting the growth of algae in freshwater.

15.000 K – Daylight tube for marine aquariums

- Cold white spectrum with a colour temperature of 15,000 K and a highlight yield, specially designed for lighting marine aquariums.

- Supplies corals and other invertebrates (lower animals) with the necessary luminous energy for optimum growth. The particularly intensive range between 400 and 500 nm promotes zooxanthellae which are indispensable for the growth of many corals and other invertebrates.

- Great in combo with some red spectrum tubes for Lake Malawi cichlid tanks

Tips for lighting an aquarium

Lighting duration:
Lighting an aquarium for approx. 12 hours a day is considered the ideal length of time for plants and fish from tropical regions. Any special requirements of individual species regarding light intensity should also be taken into consideration. It is important to note that insufficient light intensity cannot be compensated for by extending the length of time an aquarium is lit. Taking a
“lunch break” in the lighting exposure is unnatural and interferes with the biorhythm of the plants.

Lighting configurations:
In the case of an aquarium hood with only one tube, the requirements of the plants should always be the prime consideration. For hoods with more than one tube, the natural cycle of daylight can be simulated in both light intensity and color temperature: e.g. starting the aquarium day with half or one third of the tubes switched on, switching the rest on after about 2 hours, and switching off again in the evening in reverse order.

Service life:
Most T 8 have a service life of 10.000 and 20.000 hours, respectively. This corresponds to about 2 and 4 years of operating life in an average aquarium.
In the interests of plants in freshwater and invertebrates in saltwater we recommend changing the tubes after one or two years, as the intensity of illumination decreases towards the end of a lamp’s service life, distorting the spectrum. Replacing the tubes in good time avoids unnecessary adaptation problems for both plants and animals.

ENG Setting up a Cichlid Aquarium

2010-05-20T14:02:00.005+02:00

by Pooja Chakrabarty

Before you get home your new cichlids, you need to set up their home: the aquarium. The setting up of this aquarium for your cichlids will require a fair amount of work. Not only will you be required to assemble all the equipment, but you will also need to do some research on the cichlid that you are planning to get home.

To set up a cichlid aquarium you will need to assemble the following equipment: the tank (A 20 gallon tank is ideal. For a beginner, a larger tank is preferred for they are lower on maintenance. Moreover, a larger tank would give more space to aggressive cichlids, and the weaker ones would then be able to avoid their aggression); gravel; a heater; an air pump; a filter (Sponge filters are especially suited to clean the water in smaller tanks, and they are very low maintenance); a cover for the tank (This does not necessarily have to fit like a glove or be airtight. It is merely to prevent the cichlids from jumping out); a thermometer; a chloramine remover (only if the water is rich in chloramine, which keeps chlorine dissolved in the water….needless to say that chlorine is harmful for your cichlids); food for the cichlids.

Setting up the cichlid aquarium:
(1) Rinse and clean the tank thoroughly without soap, for soap can be fatal for the cichlids.

(2) Place the tank where it will remain permanently. Don't attempt moving the tank around when it has more than two inches of water in it. Not only would the tank be heavy, but this would also be unsafe. Moreover, the stress placed on the silicone on the tank might cause it to leak.

(3) If the pH level of the water is too low, it can be combated by placing in the tank coral sand or gravel. Alternatively, limestone and other rocks can also be used.

(4) When adding the sand or gravel ascertain that these have been washed properly and slowly add it into the tank. Don't just drop in a lot of gravel together, as your tank might get damaged.

(5) Add water till the tank is three-quarters full.

(6) Set up the filter in a back corner, and put the airline tubing in place between the filter and the air-pump. Once you turn on the air-pump, the filter should start working.

(7) Set up the heater along the back wall of the tank, and set it to a temperature of about 24 to 26^oC. It is advisable to use a heater as this will help avoid fluctuations of temperature in the water. Keep your cichlid aquarium away from sunny areas of your home, as overheating of the tank may kill the cichlids.

(8) As far as lighting a cichlid aquarium goes, stick to full spectrum lights that are not too bright. Being able to replicate the correct spectrum of light would go some way in determining how healthy your fish turns out to be. Excessively bright lights would in fact disturb them. Similarly, the background should be made out of neutral colors so that the cichlids feel comfortable and at home.

(9) Now fill the aquarium with water, but not right till the brim.

(10) Wait for one whole day at the very least so that the temperature gets stabilized, and so that the chlorine present in the water evaporates.

(11) Only after 24 hours have elapsed should you go to get your cichlids. When choosing your cichlids get a male and a female.

(12) Don't put a whole crowd of fish in a new cichlid aquarium. The natural nitrogen cycle takes a little time to get started in a new aquarium. Hence, it is preferred to start with only one or two fish.

(13) Also, try not to mix different species and place them in the same tank. Some like the angelfish feed on other cichlids like the neon tetra. Also, different species would have different needs as regards the conditions within the tank.

(14) Don't flood your cichlids with food on the first few days. Start small, and only when your cichlids start exhibiting a desire to eat should you increase the amount of food you give them.

(15) When decorating the aquarium, remember that this will be the home of your fish, so try to reproduce the conditions that prevail in their natural habitat. For instance, mbuna cichlids live in rocks, and therefore would be happier in an aquarium filled with rocks than in one filled with plants.

(16) You could also place plants in your cichlid aquarium. Find out which plants are found in the natural environment of your particular cichlids. Don’t just randomly pick out aquatic plants and place them there.

(17) Change no more than 25% of the water every week.

(18) At the same time rinse the filter thoroughly.

(19) Clean the glass of your cichlid aquarium about once a month…without soap.

Normally if the conditions in the cichlid tank remain stable, the fish do thrive. However, at times, despite following all the rules to take care of the fish, they may die. Don't let this put you off. With practice and experience you will be able to have a cichlid aquarium that is filled with many of these colorful finned creatures.

ENG Cichlid Breeding: Learning the Basics

2010-05-20T13:57:00.003+02:00

by Pooja Chakrabarty

breeding is easy with some cichlids and difficult with others, but this is made easier if you as a cichlid owner take good care of your cichlids. Keeping the aquarium clean and maintaining the conditions required by that particular cichlid will keep your cichlids healthy. This will induce them to mate more readily.

Perhaps the most essential element in cichlid breeding is keeping your cichlids in top shape. How can you do this? By investing in a good filter to keep the water free of pollutants, by purchasing a heater to maintain the temperature, by carrying out regular water changes, by maintaining a good water chemistry (water should be free of ammonia and nitrites), and, by providing your cichlids with a well-balanced diet.

Why do you need to keep your fish healthy? Only healthy fish will want to mate. Moreover, many female cichlids do not eat during the incubation, which may in some cases last up to 4 weeks. Only a fish that is in good health will be able to endure such abstinence from food.

For cichlid breeding, it is helpful to get several females for each male, as this way they male's bullying does not get restricted to just one female. Aggressiveness of tankmates can cause stress among the weaker fish. For cichlid breeding to be accomplished readily, it is essential that your cichlids are not stressed.

The speed at which cichlid breeding is accomplished depends also on the diet. A varied diet should be provided. At the time of cichlid breeding it would be advisable to provide food that is rich in proteins.

Cichlids breed in different ways. Open Brooders (e.g. angelfish, discus) spawn on open surfaces like rocks, or on the substrate. Shelter Brooders are of two types – Cavity Brooders (e.g. Apistogramma) who lay their eggs in caves and in depressions, and Mouth Brooders (e.g. Aulonocara) who carry the eggs and the fry in their mouths. Open Brooders tend to lay more eggs (sometimes as much as 10,000) than the Shelter Brooders (about 300).

Cichlid breeding becomes easier if these territorial creatures are provided with sheltered areas where they can spawn. Rocks and plants can be used to provide them with hiding places. Mouth brooders will benefit the most from these hideouts because they will need more than usual protection when they are egg-laden.

The female releases the fry depending on a number of factors such as her species, her age, and the state of her health. Water quality may also determine when the fry get released.

Remember that young inexperienced females are not too likely to carry the eggs for the full term the first time round. After that first time however, they learn to breed successfully.

Sometimes fish do not mate because they are overfed – the hungrier they are, the more their aggressive tendencies are likely to show up, and the more likely they will be to mate. However some species like Auloncara naturally take time to become sexually mature. Be patient with them.

Water temperatures of about 76^oC and 78^oC and alkaline, hard water will aid in cichlid breeding. The maintenance of a steady temperature will aid in the hatching of the eggs.

Raising and harvesting of cichlids can be done in several ways. The best method is allowing the mother to spit out the fry naturally in a separate tank. Here she does not have to worry about other adults who may eat the fry. The survival of the fry is almost certain in this case unless the mother herself consumes the fry. in such a case it would be good to transfer the mother to another tank once she has released the fry. Most fry start eating flakes and brine shrimp once they have absorbed their egg sacs. The fry will grow rapidly with good water conditions, frequent feeding, and good diets.

Cichlid breeding is almost an art form, and you and your cichlids will keep getting better at it with time.

Just keep trying.

ENG The Evolution of Cichlids

2010-05-20T13:54:00.001+02:00

by Sabine Wilkins

All of us are fascinated by cichlids, and probably by their diversity and the sheer number of species and variations on the theme cichlids. At one time or another we have probably wondered where do they came from, how did they get to where they are, and how come there are so many different species?

With this article I will attempt to give some ideas on how to solve the riddle that is cichlids.

Cichlids are secondary freshwater fish. That means that they derived from seawater fish that again populated the freshwater. This has one great advantage over other species whose ancestors never went back to the sea: secondary freshwater fish have a much higher tolerance for salt than primary freshwater fish, therefore giving them an advantage in colonising waters that are high in dissolved minerals.

The first cichlids probably inhabited the rivers of Africa, where we still find some species today. A long time ago the Great African Rift cut through the Congo River, and the waters of the inflowing of what is today the Malaragasi River were trapped and formed Lake Tanganyika. The water became stagnant and was warmed by sun as well as geothermal energy exposed at the bottom of the Rift. At the same time, large quantities of salts were dissolved from the underlying exposed rocky lake floor, making it hard for primary fresh water fish to colonise the new Lake. For cichlids, however, this new environment became a dreampool. It was rich in nutrients and food and low in competition.

Specialisation and speciation seems to take place more frequently and rapidly in stable environments. The temperate regions around the world, with their huge fluctuation in climatic conditions, have lower diversity in comparison with the huge diversity found in the tropics, where the climatic conditions are largely stable, which supports this theory. And it makes sense. In stable environments adaptations or changes in behaviour/anatomy/morphology that set individuals apart from the masses and that allow these individuals to exploit a certain part of this environment more efficiently, will have an advantage over all the others that are fighting with each other for everything. In changing environments, however, it is an advantage to be a generalist and so be able to exploit everything that comes along.

Besides being secondary freshwater fish and so having an advantage over primary freshwater fish, which would have had a hard time to deal with the large amounts of dissolved salts in the water, cichlids also sport another advantage, an anatomical feature, the pharyngeal apparatus. The pharyngeal apparatus serves very much like our teeth, whereas the teeth of the lips serve more like our hands. The upper pharyngeal jaw may be moved up and down and dislocated and the lower pharyngeal jaw can be moved forwards and backwards. Cichlids are therefore able to chew their food and exploit vegetable matter for food. The cell walls of plants cannot be digested in the guts of vertebrates, but the chewing action crushes the cell wall and allows digestion of the cell contents. The pharyngeal apparatus has also proven to be very adaptable. Different feeding habits usually go hand in hand with a different morphology of the pharyngeal apparatus.

So, we have a largely stable environment full of cichlids all competing for the same kinds of food. Except of course for some individuals that show mutations that enable them to gather some kind of food more effectively. I would like to demonstrate this with one example from Lake Tanganyika. The lake was split into two or even three separate lakes for a long time, before it combined to one lake again. In the southern part of the lake Lamprologus sexfasciatus lives on small snails, the shells of which it crushes with its pharyngeal jaws, but also on invertebrates. In the northern part of the lake L. tretocephalus feeds on snails, large and small, which it crushes with its extremely well developed bony plates of the pharyngeal jaw, whereas the nocturnal L. toae lives exclusively on invertebrates. It is imaginable that the ancestor of all three species was something closer to L. sexfasciatus. The population in the northern lake evolved into two species that are very successful at exploiting their respective niches, whereas the population in the southern lake remained relatively unspecialised.

For some reason speciation seems to occur in bouts and not steadily over time. During times of explosive speciation, a second specialisation developed, which involved the breeding mechanism. In cichlids we see basically two strategies:
Substrate spawners, which expend a huge amount of energy into producing an enormous number of eggs and to guarding these eggs. In the example of Boulengerochromis this is taken to the extreme. Parents will not eat while their offspring is around. Eventually the parents will die while guarding their young and not so young offspring.
The other strategy involves the production of only relatively few eggs and the expending of energy in guarding these and the larvae by mouthbrooding females.

Lake Tanganyika is the largest museum of natural history in the world. It is probably also the oldest isolated body of water cichlids could settle. Geological studies have revealed that Lake Tanganyika is at least 20 million years old, during which time its water level rose and dropped repeatedly. In fact until about 40,000 years ago, the water level was 600 metres below its present level. However, things were very different in the other two lakes. DNA studies of 16 species, representing the major Malawian cichlid groups, suggest that all the Malawian cichlids arose from one single species within the past 700,000 years. In Lake Victoria, 14 equally representative species had an even more recent common ancestor. These same DNA studies revealed that all the Malawian and Victorian species descended from one lineage found in the rivers and streams of east Africa, which in turn was derived from one single lineage of maternal mouthbrooding cichlids from Lake Tanganyika. The surprise came, when recently data were published by geologists that proved that Lake Victoria was dry for 5,000 years until about 12,000 years ago. That means that the enormous multitude of Victorian cichlids evolved in the relatively short period of time of 12,000 years. Palaeontologists from other fields would expect such recent ancestors to be indistinguishable from modern forms.

So, how did the cichlids in Lake Malawi and Lake Victoria evolve so rapidly in their respective lakes?

Genetic differences are known to exist among different colour forms of rocky-shore cichlids that live around the edge of the Lake Malawi and islands. Genetic differences were even found in populations living separated by a 700 m. wide sandy bay. This means that there are hundreds of geographically isolated populations, which are potentially able to diverge into new species. You could even see, that we have the privilege of observing the infinitely slow process of evolution. This is why it is important for us to take note of where our fish come from. Geographical variants do show genetic differences that should be preserved, because in nature they are kept apart as well.

Could a similar process have taken place in Lake Victoria? A recent study has revealed more than 130 species inhabiting the rocky shores. As in Lake Malawi many populations appear restricted to small islands or rocky outcrops separated by sandy or swampy bays. Rocky-shore cichlids are highly specialised to exploit their habitat, do not move around freely in the open water or along sandy shores and lack a dispersal phase in their lifecycle, such as migration. Their isolated lifestyle obviously plays an important role in their rapid diversification.

However, according to George Turner, a well known cichlid researcher, this is probably not the whole story. And it doesn't explain the vast number of species inhabiting sandy or muddy shores or the deep water. Lake Victoria as 300 such species, Lake Malawi 350. So, how did these evolve? There must be some other process driving speciation in these non-isolated population and accounting for an even faster rate of speciation than in the rocky shores.

According to George Turner, just feeding specialisations can't explain everything. Ole Seehausen, who researched Lake Victoria extensively, found that female mouthbrooders speciate faster than the rest, so we should be thinking about sexual selection, he says.

Sexual selection by females is most powerful, when males play no part in parental care and can mate with lots of females in one season. It can lead to the evolution of spectacular male courtship displays, colours and structures, all of which we see in cichlids. Of all the endemic cichlids of Malawi and Victoria, those of some of the most diverse groups in Tanganyika are maternal mouthbrooders. In these species, the males are larger, brighter and have longer fins than the females. Often researchers use male courtship colours for the identification of closely related species. Females perhaps use the same cues to identify their mates. If so, sexual selection might play a key role in speciation. This was tested in the laboratory (or better the aquarium), and these tests showed that females of Pseudotropheus auratus discriminate between males during courtship by the number of eggspots on the anal fin. This is strong evidence that sexual selection acts on male courting traits.

Even clearer evidence came when Ole Seehausen observed females of a yet undescribed species discriminate between males of different colours in clear water conditions, but mated at random in turbid waters with limited visibility. Female choice can therefore prevent hybridisation between two species in their natural habitat. Computer simulations show that female selection can result in one species splitting in two in only a few generations. However, two conditions must be present for this to occur: females must see a large number of males to choose from, and relatives may not disperse very far between generations. Both conditions seem to be fulfilled in many African cichlids.

Until now I have talked only about African cichlids. But what of the American cichlids. How come that cichlids are present in an area that far away from Africa? How did they get there? In the early days before we had the knowledge we have now, one theory said that cichlids may have evolved at a time when the continents still formed a huge landmass called Pangea. However, Pangea broke up and the continents floated apart a long time before cichlids ever evolved. So, what did really happen?

Over the past millions of years the water level of the ocean fluctuated widely coinciding with Ice Ages, where a lot of the water was bound in the ice covering much of the earth. When the ice sheets melted, the sea level rose again. During the times of low sea levels the water may have receded far enough to expose peaks at the ocean floor and form islands, or maybe have receded even far enough to uncover the Atlantic ridge, a huge mountain range running across the floor of the Atlantic from Africa right up to the north of South America. Cichlids probably resembling those of the genera Hemichromis (our jewels) and Thylochromis moved along the coasts of this ridge, just like the monkeys and many other animals and plants did, and finally colonised South America. Again their nature of being a secondary freshwater fish would have helped them survive in the salty ocean water. By colonising one brackish river mouth after the other, eventually they would have spread to the northern tip of South America. Central America as we know it today did not exist at that time, rather it was a series of islands. Cuba and Hispaniola, the site of the oldest known American fossil cichlid, were closer to where Central America is today, before they moved eastwards to where they are today.

And again we observe feeding specialisations and breeding specialisations amongst the many species that have evolved in the Americas. Within the genus Geophagus we see complete substrate spawners to mouthbrooders.

Ironically, now that we are starting to understand how such a large diversity was able to evolve our greatest challenge will be to preserve that diversity. Population explosion around the lakes and with it pollution and overfishing as well as habitat destruction in America are threatening our favourite fish. Our aquariums are increasingly becoming something of Noah's Arc, so we should treat our jewels with great care. They may yet become the last hope for the survival of these species.

ENG Building a Fishroom II (a cichlid fish room)

2010-05-20T13:51:00.001+02:00

by Peter Gallagher

Keeping Cichlids is an addiction. It starts with just one tank, often with no thoughts of breeding these fascinating fish. However, nature takes over and the fish start courting and breeding. Then the fish keeper is faced with the problem of where to keep and grow the newly adopted babies. A second tank is purchased to cater for the needs of the growing family, and before you notice, you're hooked. It has happened to many millions of people worldwide and will continue to happen in the future: there is nothing to be ashamed of, nor the need to feel guilty. The love of nature's wonders is perfectly natural.

Once a fishkeeper has graduated from simply having a couple of tanks in the lounge room the thoughts of expansion begin. Why not use all or part of the garage or the garden shed to house the fish? This is the logical progression, but the decisions to be made at this point should not be rushed. The setting up of a fish room can be the most important thing in this hobby. It is often the design and layout of the room that ultimately leads to success or failure, and if you will stay in the hobby for a lifetime or burn out within a year.

How large or small the area you use for the room depends on a number of factors. Things like location, available space, type of fish to be kept and budget will all govern the size of the room. Needless to say, the room will never be big enough. The construction of the room itself varies depending on the skills of the owner and if the building is to be constructed from scratch or simply converted (e.g. an existing garage). The external shell is relatively unimportant - brick, tin, fibro, weatherboard and just about any other building material is suitable.

The internal linings and the insulation within the walls and ceiling are all of vital importance. This is the area where most attention should be focussed. The internal lining of the room should be fibro or water resistant plasterboard. Cornices or quad should be used to ensure there are no gaps. This should be painted in a light coloured mildew resistant paint. The insulation used depends on the type of construction and your budget, however, the more money you spend now will be reflected in lower heating costs later. The main factor is the insulation . It must have 100% coverage to be effective. Stud walls can be best insulated with fibreglass batts. Push the batts in between the studs and use string or cord, stapled to the studs to hold the batts up until the lining is in place. An alternative to batts is polystyrene foam. No matter what the material used, the entire cavity between the stud must be filled. So cut out small strips to fill gaps, if necessary. In the ceiling the insulation is easy: if the roof is pitched, simply lay the batts or foam between the rafters. An alternative product called cellulose fibre can be pumped into the roof and is very effective. If the roof is a flat or skillion roof that is not already lined, then the best method is polystyrene foam as it is easier to install above your head, as batts tend to sag.

Windows and skylights are good to provide natural light to your fishroom, but they can also be the point of greatest heat loss. All glass openings must be double glazed. Suitable windows can be purchased or easily made by the handyman. The basic principle must be known to take advantage of this technology. It works like this: the air trapped between the two sheets of glass acts as a barrier to the heat, much the same way as a diver's wet suit. The two sheets of glass must be close together (i.e. about 15 mm) and the air must be sealed in between the sheets. If the air is not sealed between the sheets or the gap is too large then it won't work and all the effort is wasted. Doors should fit well in the jam and have a draft excluder fitted underneath.

A door closer is also a good idea, to make certain that it is not left ajar.

Heating is the major running cost in keeping fish when away from tropical areas. So once you have worked out the best way to keep the heat in, the next step is to work out the best way to generate the heat. Firstly the most costly way to heat your tanks is individual aquarium heaters in all tanks, so this should be avoided. Heating the whole room is therefore the best. Gas is the most cost effective energy to heat the room, however, some heater designs are much better than others. Models with a "Power flue" are superior to all others. These units draw air from outside and then return the exhaust gas back outside. The next best are any other flued models. Other models without flues should be avoided. Your local gas supplier should be consulted to ensure your choice is safe for your application. Reverse cycle air conditioners are the next most cost effective . The best way to run them is for only 3 one hour sessions in a 24 hour period. This can be accomplished by using an electronic timer purchased from a hardware shop. The correct times and settings for the air conditioner will be achieved by monitoring the tank temperature in the room each night, and then again in the early morning before the lights come on, and finally in the middle of the day. This will avoid you being in the room when the heater is on, and avoid heat loss from you coming and going from the room.

So, now your building is complete and you are ready for the tanks. The amount of planning you do here will directly influence the amount of time you spend on maintenance and the amount of water you can have in the room. My personal preference is to have wide tanks to maximise the amount of water per unit area. I also believe in having overflows in the tanks and some degree in automation in the area of water changing. My fish rooms have long racks or stands that suit tanks of equal width and height. The lengths of tanks can vary depending on needs. For example the bottom and middle rows can be 18 inches high and the top row 24 inches high. Having your stands set up this way is the most efficient way to maximise total water capacity and all commercial fishrooms are done in this manner. Most people use either wood or steel to make their stands. Both materials must be painted to ensure long life.

Filtration is a subject that can be as diverse as the fish we keep. However, two basic methods are preferred. The simplest is individual air operated filters of your favourite design. These are cheap to run and often easy to make yourself. The other way is to have a common filter system, where many tanks run from the same large filters. These filters can run whole racks or rows or even the whole room. Some expert assistance will be required to design a system for your needs, so shop or ask around and get detailed quotes before starting. Some advice: keep separate systems for different water conditions (e.g. Americans, Africans, or Discus) and keep your fry growing tanks on a separate system to the breeders, if possible.

Lighting in the fish room is usually less important than in a display tank in the lounge room. I have always designed my rooms as a cost saving exercise. So I only use ceiling lights above the aisles between the tanks. I have a couple of regular aquarium lights, that can be moved to a specific tank if necessary.

At this point I will give you an example of one of my rooms. The building is approximately 30 feet long and 9 feet wide (about the same as a garage for two cars, one behind the other). There are about 60 tanks from 40 litres to 1,800 litres, and the total capacity is 13,000 litres. All tanks except the two largest tanks (1,800 and 800 litres) are on air operated filters, including four 5x2x2 tanks. The total average energy costs $4.50 / week in gas and $11.50 / week in power.

I consider this to be a very cost effective room for the large amount of water.

In conclusion, think carefully before you start, look at other people's fish rooms, ask other society members how their rooms are set up, and if they have any problems with their rooms and how they can be rectified.

Please try not to make the same mistake more than once. Remember, planning ahead will make your room neater, much more functional, and more enjoyable for you and your fish.

ENG Building a Fish Room

2010-05-20T13:48:00.001+02:00

by Jay Shaw

So you're addicted to fish so much that you've decided to build them a room. Are you OK? I think you've gone off the deep end!! Well actually...I understand how you feel, and no... you will never have a big enough fish room.

One of the first things you need to do is figure out what fish you want to keep. This will influence the size and number of tanks you'll need. You also need to figure out how you will fit the tanks in your room and how you're going to service them. What about filters and heat? What about moisture in the room? These are all questions you may need help with. Everyone has their own idea of a system - some work, some sort of work and others fail miserably. All I can do is offer some assistance. I am now building my third fish room and have seen many more. Over time I have mentally collected ideas from what I've seen and worked them into my new room. I would still do things different next time!

My new fish room (still under construction)

Tanks

You can never have enough tanks, that's for sure. Some tanks are just not suitable for the fish being kept. For example, angel pairs don't do well in 15 gallon tanks. 15's just don't have the height, 20's are better. 10 gallon tanks work great for livebearers. They can house crops of fry and sexes and strains.

I find that cost wise, 33 gallon tanks are a great deal. You can buy new ones for under $50 each (new) or find used ones for around $30. They hold a good amount of fish and are easy to work with.10's go for about $11 new and 5's go for about the same. Anything bigger than a 33 starts getting a little pricey. Some brands of tanks can also be better than others. Try a few of each brand and then fill your room with the ones you like the best! So if you stay in the 5 - 33 range, you can fill your room with a small investment.

Prices are in $ Canadian

Stands

There are lots of plans out there for different styles. I like using a 3 tier set-up. Some fish shy away from being at ground level (e.g. Discus), but most do fine. I like to keep the top row of tanks at a reachable height. Also leave enough space above rows so you can work in the tanks (netting, water changes). I put my biggest tanks on the bottom and work my way up to smaller tanks on top.

Filtration

This can be very tricky or very simple, it all depends on what you want. I'm sure you're quite up to date on all the filters and filtration techniques out there. Your decision will be based on how many tanks you are going to run and how much extra money you have to burn!!

If you want to save money or keep production costs down, invest in a blower/sponge system. These systems are cheap to create. A blower will cost you about $500 - $800 depending on how many tanks you want to run. All the airlines and hose will be around $150, and you can make 100 sponge filters for about $250. With the sponge system, you have more media space than most other filters offer. The only down side is that you have to manually remove any solid waste. The good side is that you can have higher stocking densities.

Another good system is re-circ. This can be complicated to set-up and is very particular to the person who is designing it. I am currently designing a system and look forward to working out the bugs.

Heat

I suggest heating the room and not individual tanks. The heaters alone can cost a fortune! Heating the room sounds expensive, but if you make good use of the heat it's actually quite efficient!!

Room Equipment

Be sure to invest some time and money into your room. Insulate it well, and paint it with a good sealing paint (oil based). You'll want to install an exhaust fan with a humidistat, so that it turns on at the desired setting. You should also install your heater on a thermostat as well. This will automate your room environment. While you're at it, throw all your lights on timers. This will keep your room in good shape for a few years.

I won't try to avoid the subject - moisture is very hard on your room. Please don't use rooms inside living quarters. It's very hard on occupants, especially those with allergies!! If you want to get rid of excess moisture, invest in a dehumidifier - they do work. If you keep good lids on your tanks, water loss will be minimal.

Well, that's some basic info to get you started. If you have any specific questions concerning Fish Rooms, direct them to the email address below:

ENG Neolamprologus brevis

2010-05-20T12:41:00.005+02:00

by George Wright

These dwarf cichlids from Lake Tanganyika have been about in Australia for some time (so I've been told). The were first documented in 1899 by Boulenger as "a shell-dwelling fish which displaces substantial volumes of gravel and substrate in the process of maintaining its shelter".-Loiselle.

This dwarf cichlid is at least as interesting as many others that I have kept and bred. Their bi-parental guarding of the spawning site - a large Diachanthius shell from any east coastal rock platform in Australia - makes them probably more fascinating.

Adult males grow to 6 cm, females to 4.5 cm. They have a brown-fawn solid colour, the males show some whitish-yellow stripes throughout the caudal peduncle, and the females have blotches of the same colour. The dorsal fin of the male is yellow- or orange-tipped with blue barring near the eyes. The fish are easily sexed by colour and size at 3-4 months post spawning.

These fish are best kept in pairs in 40 litre tanks with numerous shells and shell-grit on the bottom. I feed them good flake food and some daphnia and wrigglers when available. The tank is kept at 26°C and the hardness of the water is maintained by the use of carbonate based buffers. pH is maintained in the range of 7.6 to 7.8.

I started with four fish, two larger and two smaller from the same brood, but soon found out within ten days that I had one male and three females. The smaller two females were eliminated by the "pair" that proceeded to defend (against some bristlenose catfish) a shell, which was relatively large for their 3 - 5 cm. long bodies.

The pair settled into breeding within two months and the first fry was sighted some seven days after spawning. The size of the spawns have varied from 8 to 30. The fry are 3 - 4 mm long and very slender when they are released from the shell.

I experimented with different foods - liquid fry food, crushed pellets, flake food and brine shrimp. The secret to success was live brine shrimp. The fry grew quite slowly at first, taking about four to five weeks to grow up to 1 cm., then some time later they started to thicken in the body and take on the appearance of their parents in colour and shape.

Unlike Neolamprologus ocellatus, Neolamprologus calliurus and Neolamprologus multifasciatus, which usually use individual shells for shelter, these fish co-habit the same shell when paired and defend this as their territory. They are step-breeders, with flurries of 3 - 5 spawns in a three month period. Once released the fry are independent of the parents and inhabit other shells in groups or individually.

Neolamprologus brevis are shy fish, which get to "know" their keeper - only displaying when nobody else is near the tank. Otherwise the fish are robust and good parents. They need only an empty shell, a small tank with clear, well aerated, hard water.

ENG Cyprichromis leptosoma - beautiful Tanganyika sardines

2010-05-20T12:25:00.007+02:00

by Len Reback

If there is such a thing as an underrated Rift Lake Cichlid, the Cyprichromis leptosoma is it. C. leptosoma, is sometimes known as the "cyp" (pronounced "sip") and sometimes as the "blue flash", although the latter is more often used to identify a particular variety of cyp. Sometimes it is also referred to as a "sardine cichlid", which is a reference to its streamlined shape. It is a colorful, mouth brooding cichlid from Lake Tanganyika that would make an excellent addition to many Tanganyikan tanks.

The typical color pattern for a male C. leptosoma is a bright blue, with some yellow on the fins, and either a blue or yellow tail. A male cyp in good condition can be a striking sight! Unfortunately, the females are much less colorful, primarily a pleasing beige with perhaps some yellow in the fins (depending on the variety). But, as we shall see below, even the less colorful females are not as much of a disadvantage as many other mouth brooding cichlids.

The primary benefit the cyp has as an aquarium resident over virtually all its relatives is its habitat preference. Unlike nearly every other cichlid, the cyp does not require contact with the substrate. It is a midwater swimmer, just like barbs or tetras. Since they do not compete for scarce substrate habitats, caves, or shells, the cyp can be added to many setups without hindering the substrate spawners in the tank.

Another benefit the Cyprichromis has over most Tanganyikan mouth brooders is its relative hardiness. While this is not an "industrial strength" cichlid like some lamprologines, it will not drop dead at the first missed water change, or just because you looked at it funny, as with many Tanganyikan mouth brooders. While they may show some stress if tank maintenance becomes lax, they will survive for quite a while under less than ideal conditions, allowing the situation to be rectified. Typical Tanganyikan water conditions - hard, alkaline, and clean - are ideal for cyps.

Also unlike many of their Tanganyikan mouth brooding brethren, cyps do not require an overly specialized diet. Their diet in the wild is primarily zooplankton and they enjoy small crustaceans in the aquarium. I feed mine mostly OSI flakes, frozen brine shrimp and daphnia, and freeze-dried cyclop-eeze. Basically cyps will thrive on the same diet you feed julies, shellies, and most other lamprologines.

As noted above, there are several varieties of C. leptosoma. These varieties fall within two major groupings, that probably actually represent separate species. The first grouping is the original C. leptosoma, whose most popular varieties are probably the "blue flash" (from both Malasa and Isanga), and the "Utinta". These varieties grow to a maximum length of about 3 inches, and they subscribe to the typical coloration described above, although males of the blue flash varieties also have a streak of bright blue or purple on the top front of their bodies, giving them their names.

The second grouping is sometimes described as C. leptosoma "jumbo" and, as the name implies, they can grow much larger than the first variety - up to about 6 inches in length. The most popular variety of jumbo is probably the "tri-color", and while some jumbos do show the typical color pattern, there are several significant variations - some quite beautiful, others more drab.

My own experience with cyps is with the smaller, original group, and specifically the "blue flash Malasa" variety. Although some books claim these fish need a lot of space, I keep 10 adults and several sub adults in a 55 gallon (48 inch long) tank without any problems, and with some breeding success. Based on some research on the internet, it seems that many people have success with cyps in 48 inch tanks, and often in smaller ones. My cyps have as tank mates a breeding colony of Neolamprologus multifasciatus that live in shells and about 7 Synodontis petricola catfish that live in ceramic caves. The different species generally keep out of each others' way - the multies living among their shells, the cyps taking up the mid to upper levels of the tank, and the catfish generally staying in their caves during the day. I find the combination of colorful cyps darting around, active multies taking care of their shells and guarding their young, and the occasional appearance of a beautiful catfish coming out of its cave to be a very pleasing setup. Unlike many mouth brooders, cyps are best kept in a group with about the same number of males as females. I am sure that a pure harem of one or two males with lots of females will work as well. But since the males are more colorful, and you can keep several together, you might as well. What would probably not work as well would be to keep just a pair, since the male will be overly attentive to the single female. But with multiple males to show off to, and multiple females to attend to, if you keep a group of about ten, no one female will be overly harassed by the dominant male.

So how do cyps breed? Unlike virtually any other cichlid. As previously described, the cyp can live totally independent of the substrate. The female actually lays her eggs in midwater, where the male fertilizes them, after which the female backs up to catch the newly fertilized egg in her mouth. Ad Konings shows pictures of this sequence in some of his Tanganyikan cichlid books, but I have never been fortunate enough to witness it myself. It must be a fascinating sight to watch if you are ever lucky enough to catch the fish in the act.

In any case, the female carrying her eggs will be very noticeable by the large bulge in the front of her throat. There is no need to remove her from the tank, at least if there are several other females in the tank to keep the males' attention away. After about two to three weeks of holding the eggs, you should be able to see the fry's eyes right through the stretched skin of the mother's throat. The female should release the fry after about three weeks, but in a community tank, she may not have a quiet enough spot to do so (releasing fry is the one time in the cyp life cycle where a cave typically gets used).

But fortunately, stripping her is easy enough. When she is ready to release - about 3 weeks after laying the eggs, it is often sufficient to just lift her out of the tank in a net and put her in a small container. Some of the fry are likely to be released before she even reaches the container. After a few minutes in the container, she will have likely released all her fry. But you may want to gently lift the female out of the container and put her back a few times to be sure. In any case, there is no need to manipulate her mouth in any way. Note that with cyps, once the fry are released, there is no turning back. The mother offers no more protection to the fry after she releases them, although neither she nor other adult cyps make any attempt to eat the fry.

A typical spawn will result in about 6 fry. Each is fairly large, and more than capable of eating newly hatched brine shrimp. I put my newly released fry in a breeding net within the same tank as the parents. I start out by feeding a dry powder combination of Hikari First Bites mixed with a little spirulina powder. I also feed decapsulated brine shrimp eggs (if you feed brine shrimp eggs they must be decapsulated or else they won't be digestible; of course I am sure that newly hatched brine shrimp would work at least as well). Soon they have grown enough to take Cyclop-eeze, and soon after that, frozen daphnia.

One problem I have encountered with breeding cyps occurs when I get too anxious to strip the female, and do so too early, say after 2 weeks instead of 3. In that case the fry may still have their yolk sacs attached. But as typical with cyps, this problem is easily rectified. The fry can be grown in breeder nets even with the yolk sac attached. It is just important to make sure that the adults in the main tank cannot get at the yolk, since the yolk is too much of a temptation for the adults to resist, and the fry with yolk attached is immobile at the bottom of the net. The best solution to this is to use a net within a net, so the fry is separated from the bottom of the net that the adults can pick at. Alternatively, just raise them is a separate tank.

For anyone with a Tanganyikan tank with julies, shellies, and other substrate spawners looking for a new challenge, Cyprichromis leptosoma is a perfect addition. I hope you will give it a try. I'm sure you will enjoy it!

Malawi Mbuna

2010-05-11T13:06:00.009+02:00

Malawi Mbune

Početci malte ne svakog ciklidaša su ribe iz jezera Malawi. Uglavnom su u pitanju Malawi Mbune (kamenjari) koji su šareni, živi, ratoborni...jednostavno prelepe ribe.

Isti slučaj je i kod mene. Prve ribe koje sam dobio na poklon od strane jednog Novosadskog trgovca i uzgajivača i dobrog poznavaoca ciklida su bile upravo Malawi Mbune.

Mbune su jednostavno prelepe ribe živopisnih broja, fantastičnog ponašanja koji je svojstven samo ciklidima. Ljudi uglavnom izbegavaju ciklide, i pored toga što ih bez sumnje njihov izgled privlači, zbog zahteva koji su potrebni da se ispune kako bi neko uspešno držao ove ribe i kako bi se iste ponašale i izgledale kako treba, tj da bi se pokazale u punom sjaju.

Pseudotropheus saulosi mužjak (plavi) i ženka (narandžasto/žuta)

Osnovni „zahtev“ koji ove ribe potavljaju budućem vlasniku je veličina akvarijuma. Gupike, platike i slične ribe se mogu držati u akvarijumu 30x20x20. Mbune, s druge strane zahtevaju „velik“ akvarijum. Dimenzije dna 90x40 (uvek se osvrćem na dimenzje dna akvarijuma jer je to najbitnija dimenzija za ciklidni akvarijum) je neki po mom mišljenju najmanji mogući minimum za držanje Malawi Mbuna.

Labidochromis caerleus

Zašto je površina dna najbitnija u ciklidnom akvarijumu? Velika većina Malawi riba je teritorijalna i teži ka držanju određene teritorije, koja je naravno dno akvarijuma sa sve kamenjem, pećinama i sl.

Metriaclima estherae

Kod malawi Mbuna mužjaci su ti koji su prelepo ofarbani dok su ženke uglavnom bledo metalik boje ili neke totalno neupadljive boje. Postoje i neke vrste gde se ženka potpuno drugacije „farba“ od mužjaka i ima svoju lepu boju ali kod većine vrsta Mbuna, ženke su neupadljive. To može biti i problem jer svaka osoba koja drži ili želi da drži Mbune, najpre želi da u svom akvarijumu ima što je više moguće lepo ofarbanih, šarenih riba a manje „bledih“ riba.

Pseudotropheus demasoni

Kako se malawi Mbune ne drže u parovima (često ćete na internetu ili u prodavnicama videti da se prodaju u parovima, što je potpuno pogrešno) već su jatne ribe, u tom ajtu (neki minumum po vrsti je držati 5-6 riba po vrsti) morate imati jednog maximalno dva- tri mužjaka i dve tri ženke. Iako imate tri mužjaka samo jedan će se pokazati u punom sjaju dok će ostali mužjaci imati boju ali će on dosta zaostajati u odnosu na boju dominantnog mužjaka. Dominanta riba ne mora uvek biti najveća riba u jatu ali se uvek ta jedinka prepozna jer isključivo ona sija u punom sjaju. Jedino dominantna riba „pusti“ sve svoje boje da zablistaju u akvarijumu, dok su ostale, iako lepe, dosta „ispod“ dominantne po raskoši boja.

Jedan akvarijum dimenzija 100x50 može da udomi do 40-50 Mbuna. Preporuka je da se od jedne vrste drži 5-6 jedinki a koliko vrsta u jednom ovakvom akvarijumu zavisi od maximalne veličine koju ribe iz tih vrsta želite da držite može da dostigne.

Postoje Mbune koje su manjeg rasta, nazovi srednje i velike Mbune. Ja bi ih tako kategorizovao. U akvarijumu gore pomenutih dimenzija se može držati i samo jedna ili recimo dve vste Mbuna, ali se mora voditi računa da se uzme "dovoljan" broj riba i da se adekvatno akvarijum pripremi. Kod adekvatnog broja riba mislim na sledeće: jedno od osnovnih pravila kod ciklida Malawi jezera - ŠTO IH JE VIŠE TO BOLJE! Broj riba u Malawi akvarijumu direktno utiče na "raspodelu agresivnosti" koja je jako bitna. Premalo riba znači da će najslabija riba biti konstantno na meti dominantih riba i da će nastradati i u najčešćem slučaju uginuti.

Kada imate više riba, agresija se "raspodeređuje" na više jedinki i šansa da neko strada je znatno manja. Imao sam priliku da posmatram kako se ponaša dominanta riba u akvarijumu pomenutih dimenzija kada ima društvo od samo 5-6 riba. Jednostavno je toliko maltretirao sve ribe i jedna po jedan su odlazile u "večna lovišta".

...to be continued....

Tropheusi

2009-11-07T21:43:00.008+01:00

Tropheus-i

Oblik tela, način života, hijerarhija unutar vrste, atraktivne boje i ponašanje su sasvim dovoljni razlozi za mnoge ciklidaše da se odluče da drže ove fascinantne ribe. Akvarijum sa ovim ribama je konstantno „živ“, uvek se neko sa nekim vija, uvek su spremni da se potuku, tek onako, fore radi ili zbog „ozbiljnog“ narušavanja teritorije jedinke ili, što je takođe dosta čest slučaj, radi uspostavljanja ili potvrde dominacije.

Tropheus sp. Ikola

Tropheus-i su ribe koje mnogi smatraju da su za naprednije akvariste. Vođen ovom informacijom ni sam se nisam „usudio“ da ih nabavim sve dok nisam smatrao da sam spreman za takve ribe. Vremenom sam shvatio da je to što ljudi smatraju delimično tačno. Naime, ako se akvarista pridržava nekih osnovnih pravila pri držanju ovih veličanstvenih riba i ako je spreman da provede više vremna sa svojim ribama nego što mnoge druge vrste traže, onda i osoba sa manje ili malo iskustva može da se upusti u avanturu zvanu držanje Tropheus-a.

Ja sam lično jedan od tih primera. Akvaristikom se bavim samo tri godine. Pre toga nisam imao nikakvih dodira sa ovim hobijem a nakon nekih godinu i po "staža" sam se odlučio da ih nabavim i držim.

Tropheus kasakalawe

Mnogi pričaju o agresivnosti ovih riba. Istina je, da su agresivne agresivne su doduše postoje, neki Tropheusi koji su agresivniji kao i neki koji su manje agresivni. Agresivnost je usko vezana za način života ovih riba. Ove ribe žive u jatima, u jednom jatu može biti samo jedna dominanata riba koja „upravlja“ jatom, ima pravo da se mresti ili prvenstvo u tom činu i predvodnik je jata.

Svaka riba u jatu Tropheus-a ima svoj karakter, neke su manje agresivne, neke više, neke se stalno bore za dominaciju, dok neke nemaju te potrebe i uvek su u neku ruku „sa strane“. Tropheus-i su, moram to da napomenem, agresivni samo prema pripadnicima svoje vrste. Ostale ribe u akvarijumu malte ne ni ne primećuju, osim ako im previše zalaze u teritoriju. Čest je slučaj da se u dovoljno velikom akvarijumu drže dve ili više geovarijacija Tropheusa i da jedni druge malte ne ni primećuju sve dok se pridržavaju osnovnih pravila oko teritorija koje su predhodno ustanovljene.

Agresija ovih riba je usko vezana za veličinu jata i za stanište ili akvarijum u kom se nalaze. Ukoliko je jato manje, agresija dominantnog mužjaka je jaka i često dolazi do uginuća subdomiantnih jedinki koje dominantni „maltretira“. Kada je jato veće ta agresivnost se „podeli“ na više riba i svaka može da je „podnese“ bez nekih većih posledica određenu količinu agresije. Velika kolonija zahteva novac, velika kolonija zahteva i velik akvarijum, velik akvarijum zahteva i velik prostor, i jaču filtraciju i naravno, opet, više novca... Sve se vrti oko novca...

Isčitavajući razna iskustva ljudi koji drže duže vremena Tropheusa i imaju više kolonija, redovno ih mreste itd. isl. shvatio sam da kada je kolonija manja, teži ka bržem „proširenju“ broja jedinki tako što se češće mreste ribe i sebi prave veću koloniju. S druge strane, kada je kolonija veća, mrestovi su tu, ali nisu toliko učestali. Ovo nas opet dovodi do veličine akvarijuma u kom se Tropheus-i drže iliti u kakvim bi trebali da se drže. Opasnost kod držanja manje kolonije je već gore u tekstu opisana ali se pravilnim razmeštajem u akvarijumu i to može izbeći.

Tropheus duboisi matični primerak

Praksa je pokazala da su dimenzije akvarijuma 120x50x50 neki minimum za držanje Tropheusa i da u takvom akvarijumu možete, bez značajnijih problema, držati 25-30 jedinki. Akvarijum dimenzija 160x60x60 više nego odličan za jedno kvalitetno jato od cirka 35-40 odraslih jedinki. Dao sam Vam samo primere za maximalni broj riba u akvarijumu tih dimenzija.Kao što i sami vidite, što veći akvarijum više riba možete da držite i bolje će se Vaše ribe osećati u njemu. Neki ljudi malo i preteruju sa brojem riba, na primer u akvarijumu dimenzija 160x50x50 drže i do 80 komada, i to uspešno, ali uz pojačanu kontrolu kvaliteta vode.

Tropheus duboisi malac

Briga o Tropheusima

Kao što sam već napomenuo postoji velika fama oko brige o Tropheus-ima, a zapravo njihovo držanje i održavanje je dosta jednostavno, u smislu da ne postoji neka velika mudrost. Na nekoliko različitih foruma i sajtova na srpskom jeziku je ova tema donekle obrađena ali nije na odmet isto ponoviti. Ja se trudim da sve što pišem pišem iz sosptvenog iskustva, naravno neke stvari ne mogu jer nisam ih još iskusio te ću te podatke "pozajmiti" od iskusnijih.

Kad je u pitanju održavanje i držanje zdravih Tropheus-a, nema mesta za neznanje. Neznanje košta živote Vaših riba, a to naravno ne želite sebi da dopustite.

Postoje određena pravila i ovim putem Vam ih iznosim. Ova pravila sam naučio pre nego što sam počeo da se bavim sa Tropheusima i preporučujem svima Vama koji imate tu nameru da učinite isto.

Idemo nekim redom:

ZAMENA VODE

Menjajte vodu u akvarijumu često, pokušajte da to ustalite i da se ova operacija odvija jednom u sedam dana, po mogućstvu istog dana. Kada govorimo o količini vode, prepočuje se 30% do 40% od ukupne zapremine akvarijuma. Zamena direktno utiče na kvalitet vode i ne utiče negativno na biološki filter u Vašem akvarijumu.

ISHRANA RIBA

Tropheusi su biljojedi i treba im davati hranu na biljnoj bazi, sa što je manje moguće jakih proteina. Kada hranite tropheuse imate dve opcije, da im dajete samo jednu hranu uvek ili da mešate hrane tako da ne postoji „osnovna“ hrana kojom ih hranite. Ja sam lično pobornik menjanja hrane i preporučujem da se ribe hrane sa barem dve vrste hrane.

Hrana koju preporučujem, iz prostog razloga jer je jeftina, visoko kvalitetna i lako dostupna, je Tetrin proizvod : "Tetra Phyll“. Proizvođač Tetra je već duže vreme prisutan na Srpskom tržištu i ova hrana se može lako nabaviti. Najkvalitetnije hrana tj. najbolja i najjača po pitanju procenta spiruline je hrana proizvođača TROPICAL, njihovi „Super Forte“ proizvodi sa 36% spiruline su odlični za Vaše ribe. Pored ovih hrana kvalitetne i kod nas dostupne hrane su od proizvođača „Easy Fish“ i SERA. Jedina „teža“ hrana kojom hranim svoje tropheuse su NLS granule (NewLifeSpectrum) koja se pokazala kao odlična hrana. NLS sam počeo da koristim po preporuci jednog mog dobrog drugara, akvariste Tropheusara koji samo sa ovom hranom hrani svoje ribe i veoma je uspešan u držanju i mrestu istih.

Akvarijum sa Tropheusima može da sadrži bilje iako su Tropheusi biljojedi.

Ja lično svoje Tropheuse hranim po sistemu jednom dnevno, šest dana nedeljno s tim da im dajem raznovrsnu hranu.

Konkretno:
ponedeljak – Tetra Phyll
utorak – spirulina tablete (Tropical ili Sera)
sreda – Easy Fish spirulina
četvrtak – Tetra Phyll
petak – Easy Fish spirulina
subota – dan kada ne hranim uopšte ribe
nedelja – NLS granule

Kada hranite svoje Tropheuse, poželjno je da ih posmatrate, da vidite koje ribe jedu koje ne kako bi ako se priimeti da neka ribe ne uzima hranu, to na vreme uočilo i kako bi se ta riba lečila na vreme ukoliko se posumnja da je gubljenje apetita posledica bolesti.

Postoji i mogućnost da se tropheusi hrane više puta dnevno po manje, ali efekat teške ruke mene lično sprečava u tome (ne mogu da kvalitetno i pravilno odmerim koliko je to "malo" hrane) tako da više volim da ih nahranim jednom, ne preterano puno ali sasvim dovoljno.

Ne kažu ljudi džabe, razigran i „gladan“ Tropheus je zdrav Tropheus.

BROJ RIBA U AKVARIJUMU

Veoma bitna stavka u držanju Tropheusa je broj jedinki u jatu tj. akvarijumu. Iskustvo govori da je poželjno imati minimum 12 riba jedne vrste u jatu. Naravno broj riba dirketno zavisi od veličine akvarijuma. Istina je, možete vi staviti u akvarijum površine dna 120x50 i 50 Tropheusa, ali to će Vam doneti samo probleme u održavanju akvarijuma i neminovnog uginuća dobrog broja riba.

Tropheuse treba držati u što je moguće dužem akvarijumu. Veći akvarijum znači veća teritorija za ribe da se razmeste i smeste, više mesta za plivanje i veća šansa da subdominantna riba potraži mir u nekom svom malom delu akvarijuma.

Bela usta - trag borbe Tropheusa

Što se tiče držanja Tropheusima sa drugim vrstama tu se mora voditi računa da se Tropheusi spajaju sa ribama kojesu po ishrani i načinu života isti ili slični Tropheusima. Ribe iz roda, na primer, Erotmodus su dobar primer dobrog sustanara jatu Tropheusa. Vi naravno možete držati i druge ribe ali to ne bi bilo pametno jer ako se ribama ne daje adekvatna hrana ista će patiti i neće se pokazati u punom sjaju.

Julidochromi transcriptus "Gombi"

2009-10-31T16:33:00.007+01:00

Latinski naziv: Julidochromis transcriptus "Gombi" (Gombi je zaliv gde je pronađen ovaj varijitet)
Lokacija: jezero Tanganyika
Biotop: na dubinama od 5 do 25 metara, među kamenjem, zivi u malim pećinama i tunelima
Voda: pH 8.0 – 9.0 dH 12.0 - 25.0.
Temperatura: 24°C-28°C
Max velicina: do 7cm, polno zreli od 3cm, mužjak oko 5 cm,ženka do 7cm
Ishrana: omnivorous (svaštojed)
Način razmnožavanja: ikrašica, ženka polaže/lepi ikru na svodove pećina ili na kamen
Agresivnost: Dosta agresivna i teritorijalna vrsta

Od svih Julidochromisa na koje sam do sada naišao najlepši i po mom mišljenju nekako najbolji za zajedničke akvarijume (akvarijume sa više različitih vrsta) su transcriptusi.

Postoji nekoliko “varijacija na temu” a po meni najlepši su Gombi i Kissi ili Pemba (ili Bemba, kako ih ko zove).

Ostali Julidochromisi su previše agresivni i prema drugim ribama ne samo prema svojoj vrsti. Istinu za volju, ni moji omiljeni nisu “male maze” ali, recimo da su za nekih 30% su mirniji od ostalih, što je sasvim dovoljno da se bolje uklope sa ostalim vrstama. Ono što mi se sviđa kod njih je spremnost da se "zakače" sa duplo većim ribama od sebe i spremnost da jednostavno i po cenu svog zivota ne odstupe od branjenja svog legla. To je zapravo jedna od osnovnih osobina malte ne svih ciklida.

Što se tiče držanja ove vrste, voma su nezahtevni. Akvarijum sa ovim ribama, kao i sa svim drugim Julidochromisima, može biti bilo koji biljni akvarijum, sve dok u njemu postoji neko malo skrovište, tipa pećinice, gde bi oni mogli da se skrivaju i da se mreste. Biljke će im pružiti komfor koji vole tj. neku vrstu sigurnosti. Julidochromisi neće kopati po pesku, izlačiti korenje biljaka niti im na bilo koji drugi način nauditi. Što se tiče mrestova i načina čuvanja malaca, tu su veoma interesantni. Naime, u “jazbini” koju odrasli par drži, možete pronaći i do 10-tak različlitih legala malaca. Koliko sam uspeo da shvatim i da vidim, dokle god mlađ ne dođe do nekih 1.5cm veličine, odrasli par ih prihvata na svojoj teritoriji i nesmatra ih za pretnjom za ostalu mlađu i manju mlađ. Kada ribe iz jednog legla dosegnu velicinu od 1.5 do 2cm roditelji ih odbacuju i teraju iz legla radi sigurnosti novih naraštaja.

Dakle, mozemo slobodno reći da Julidochromisi žive u nekoj vrsti kolonije, nije baš tipičnoj vrsti poput Neolamprologus multifasciatusa ili Neolamprologus pulcher ali je to definitivno neka vrsta kolonije.

Dobar primer ovoga što pričam se vidi u akvarijumu gde držim dva para ovih riba, ali najbolji primer i potvrda ovoj teoriji je akvarijum mog dragog kolege i prijatelja akvariste Neša iz Novog Sada (aka Punker) koji u svom akvarijumu (circa 160x50x50) ima pravu džunglu od biljaka i u istom drzi negde oko 5 do 8 parova vrste Julidochromis marlieri – dosta agresivnije vrste od transcriptus-a. Njegovi parovi ne samo da dele životni prostor, već i na naki način zajedno paze na mlađ, čuvaju je i podižu. U njegovom akvarijumu uvek ima stotinjak malaca raznih veličina. Skrivaju se po panjevima, izmedju biljaka, u nekim šupljinama…sve u svemu jedna prava mala kolonija.

Julidochromis trancriptus "Gombi"

Julidochromisi su ikrašice, lepe svoju ikru na kamen, uglavnom u pecinama na gornejm svodu. Veoma su fleksibilne, brze i kada se za to ukaže potreba ratoborne ribe. Mužjaci su uvek po pravilu manji od ženki. Za razliku od transcriptusa kod ostalih vrsta Julidochromisa, ta razlika u veličini za mužjaka ume biti problem. Naime ženke su ponekad toliko agresivne da umeju da ubiju svog mužjaka, iako su “upareni” i imali su zajedno nekoliko mrestova. Veza između riba veoma lako može pući ukoliko dodje do “nagle” promene staništa, promene u dekoru akvarijuma i sl.

Imao sam priliku, na primer, da vidim kod jednog veoma cenjenog hobiste, uvoznika i prodavca riba (JZH- Beograd) da akvarijum u kom ima uparene Julidochromise marlieri “Magara”( ne znam sa kog tačno lokaliteta ali mislim da je u pitanju “magara”) ne čisti i nedira više meseci i da je akvarijum “zarastao” u alge toliko da se unutrašnjost akvarijuma nazirala. Nije smeo, po njegovim rečima, ništa da dira jer postoji mogućnost i realna opasnost da veza u tom njegovom odraslom paru jednostavno “pukne” zbog izmene enterijera koja bi usledila detaljnim čišćenjem akvarijuma i da mužjak izvuče deblji kraj tj. da ga ženka ubije.

Imajući ovu informaciju u vidu, istu sam inače dobio na više mesta ali sam samo kod gore pomenutog taj slučaj lično video, testirao sam ovu tvrdnju na mojim Julidochromis transcriptus-ima. Svi primeri za koje sam čuo ili video su se odnosili na sve druge Julidochromise OSIM na transcriptuse, niko nije imao takav primer sa njima te sam jednostavno želeo da to isprobam.

Formiran par Julidochromis transcriptus-a, koji je imao 3 uspešna mresta u to vreme, sam prvo prebacio u jedan manji akvarijum u kom su samo oni bili. Imali su jedan dobar broj pećina i kamenja kako bi se osećali sigurno. Čekao sam nekih 15tak dana, pomno ih poslatrao po nekoliko sati dnevno da bi nakon tog perioda moji transcriptusi, umesto da se pobiju, imali mrest!

Sledeće “prebacivanje” je bilo u akvarijum sa drugim ribama (ribe jezera Tanganyika, poput Altolamprologusa, cylindricusa, telmatochromisa..ali u akvarijum koji od dekora nije imao nista sem par komada manečića i par nana. U tom akvarijumu u vreme puštanja gore napomenutih riba nije bilo drugih riba, akvarijum je bio spreman za ribe ali nije bilo “starosedeoca” koji bi 100% pravili probleme pridošlicama na njihovu teritoriju. Problema iliti prekida veze kod transcriptusa nije bilo. Nije bilo ni mresta jer, po mom mišljenju nisu imali odgovarajuću podlogu iliti pećinu za mrest, ali veza je ostala ista.

Treće i finalno prebacivanje je bilo u treći akvarijum gde je bilo starosedeoca (riba koje su imale svoje teritorije u tom akvarijumu), u kom sam u jednom čošku napravio nekoliko manjih pećinca i prolaza. U taj akvarijum sam ubacio ovaj par. Posle 2-3 sata, transcriptusi su zauzeli te pećinice, posle par dana došlo je do prvog mresta i prvi malci su se pojavili.

Iako ovo što sam uradio nekima može da zvuči previše agresivno i čudno, verujete, sve sam mere predostrožnosti, koje sam mogao, preuzeo i stres prebacivanja sam sveo na najmanju moguću meru, koliko je to uopšte moguće. Nisam ovo radio tek tako, bez detaljnih priprema i nisam to uradio u nekom kratkom vremenskom roku. Za ovaj , mogu slobodno reći, experiment, sam se dosta dugo pripremao i trajao je 5 meseci.

Sada se moj par nalazi u zajednočkom akvarijumu sa nekoliko drugih vrsta ciklida (treći akvarijum iz gore navedenog "experimenta" i imaju, koliko sam uspeo da pohvatam okom, 4 ili 5 mrestova. Svi su zajedno, roditelji krstare tim delom akvarijuma, brane teritoriju i svoje malce od ostalih riba.

Ono što smatram takođe interesantnim je činjenica da briga roditelja za malce ide do te mere da hranu koju uzmu, drze u ustima i dolaze do pećine i iznad nje ustima je mrve i “posipaju” po pećini ili unutar iste kako bi malci uzeli hranu. Ovo sam do sada video samo kod školjkaša jezera Tangayika. Mozda to nije toliko redak slučaj ali ga je svakako lepo videti.

Zaista volim ove ribe i preporučujem ih svima koji bi voleli da se oprobaju sa ciklidima, makar vam to bio prvi put i ovo vam bile prve ribe iz porodice ciklida, verujte, nisu teški za držanje i pružiće Vam nešto specijalno.

Lekovi za vaš akvarijum i lečenje riba

2009-08-05T13:49:00.008+02:00

Ako ste se već odlučila da Vaš hobi bude akvaristika, morate biti na neki način spremni za sve zgode i nezgode koje se mogu desiti u vašem akvarijumu.

Jedna od "nezgoda" koja je često prisutna u akvaristici su bolesti riba.

Najbitnije je znati uzrok , zašto je riba bolesna kako bi smo je adekvatno lečili. Postavlja se pitanje šta je uzrokovalo poremećaj biobalansaa u vašem akvarijumu, kada se to odgonetne treba samo primeniti pravi lek.

Kada se pomene termin lečenje ribe podrazumeva se tretiranje vode, prirodnog okruženja u kom riba boravi. Tretiranjem vode tretira se i sama riba.

Velik broj bakterija se nalazi u svakom akvrijumu. Ako se akvarista pridržava osnovnih načela akvaristike, te bakterije se uvek mogu veoma lako držati pod kontrolom,tj u dozvoljenim količinama. Koliko sam ja upoznat, 99% bakterija koje se nalaze u jednom prosečnom akvarijumu nisu štetne po čoveka, te nema mesta za strah u radu sa akvarijumom.

Osnovne "stvari" potrebne za održavanjae dobrog bio balansa u jednom akvarijumu:
- posedovanje adekvatnog akvarijuma (veličina) za količinu i vrstu riba koje imate,
- posedovanje adekvatne opreme za vaš akvarijum (odgovarajući filteri i pumpe),

Kada nabavite i uskladite gore neavedene stvari na vam je svojim radom održavate bio balans i to na sledeći način:
- redovnom zamenom vode,
- redovnom kontrolom prljavštine i pranjem filtera za prečišćavanje vode,
- održavanjem opreme za Vaš akvarijum.

Sve ovo možda zvuči kao obiman posao,ali verujte nije. Rezultat koji sledi, nakon pridržavanja pravila za održavanje bio balansa (zdrave i lepe ribe, mrest riba i lep i uredan akvarijum) je vredan truda.

Kao što i sami znate voda je prirodno okruženje vašh ljubimaca, održavanjem kvaliteta iste održavate vaše ribe u dobroj kondiciji i zdravlju. Ono na šta uvek insistiram i što uvek pričam svojim prijateljima je da se voda mora redovno menjati/osvežavati, u određenoj količini, kako bi postigli najbolje rezultate.

Istina je da postoje određeni filteri i hemikalije koje deluju tako da korišćenjem istih "nema potrebe" za menjanjem/osvežavanjem vode. Imao sam priliku da u nekoliko navrata vidim dva akvarijuma u kojima je voda tretirana na određeni način i voda nije osvežavana više od 2 godine. Iako ribe izgledaju zdravo, tu je izostao mrest, ponašanje ribe nije na "prirodnom" nivou...jednostavno nešto fali...najbitnije od svega, po mom mišljenju, fali im sveža voda! Ma koliko to smešno zvučalo, sveža voda deluje na ribe, čini ih razigrnijima, življim i jednostavno ih pokreće, naroćito vrste riba koje ja držim.

Lekovi koji se koriste
objasnjenje koji se lekovi koriste...humani i ostali.....

Kratki opisi osnovnih lekova - dejstvo

mali info o par lekova koje preporucujem da ljudi imaju u svojoj "apoteci"

Rezime
mali rezime na ovu temu...

Lamprologus ocellatus

2009-08-04T14:12:00.015+02:00

Latinski naziv: Lamprologus ocellatus
Lokacija: jezero Tanganyika
Biotop: na dubinama od 5 do 25 metara, na muljevitom dnu , zivi u naslagama praznih spiralnih školjki
Voda: pH 8.0 – 9.0 dH 12.0 - 25.0.
Temperatura: 24°C-28°C
Max velicina: mužjak oko 5 cm,ženka do 3.5 cm
Ishrana: omnivorous (svaštojed)
Način razmnožavanja: ikrašica, ženka polaže/lepi ikru unutar skoljke
Agresivnost: Dosta agresivna vrsta, sukobi sa svim i svačim oko teritorije
Akvarijum: za jedan par dovoljno je imati akvarijum sa površinom dna od 40x25cm dok u slučaju harema potrebno je obezbediti akvarijum 60x30cm minimum

Ovo riba pripada jednoj od najleših, po mom mišljenju naravno, grupa riba u jezeru Tanganyika. Do sada sam imao priliku da vidim desetak vrsta i da posedujem isto toliko, a ocellatusi su jedni od najlepših koje sam do sada imao.

Postoji nekoliko “varijacija na temu“ ocellatusa, sličnog su ili istog ponašanja ali ću se sada držati opisivanja Gold-ova.

Imao sam priliku da biram pri kupovini, da li da kupim njih ili neke druge ocellatuse, ali njihova boja i njihova agresivnost koju su pokazali kada sam samo prisao licem akvarijumu su me odmah privukli.

Prelepa “zlatna “ boja, pogled i faca koju ove ribe imaju su priča za sebe. Na par slika dole možete se uveriti o čemu pričam…

Ono što mi se takođe sviđa kod ovih riba je to što nisu preterano zahtevne po pitanju prostora. Jedan par može sasvim uspešno i na obostrano zadovoljstvo, vlasnika i riba, da se drzi u akvarijumu ne većem od 30x30 (govorim o površini dna jer je površina dna, kao što i sami znate najbitnija kod 95% ciklida) dok bi za veći broj ovih riba preporučio akvarijum većih dimenzija na primer 60x30 ili 70x30, sve zavisi od broja jedinki naravno, no na to ću se vratiti nešto kasnije.

Počeo sam kao i sa svim drugim školjkašima, nabavio sam više komada i “čekao” da se formiraju parovi. Smestio sam ih u manji akvarijum (30x30 cm) , namerno to radim jer u manjem akvarijumu pre “provalim” polove riba i da li su se neke zbližile/uparile ili ne. Nabavio sam 5 komada, bili su na veličini 3-4 cm, nisam imao pojma a bogami ni sam prodavac nije znao kojih su polova.

Kako sam ih smestio u akvarijum, odmah su se “udomili” svako je našao neki svoj kutak. Ono što je najbitnije obezbedio sam im “dovoljan” broj školjki, na svaku ribu po 4 komada, napravio više manjih grupica školjki i potrudio se da postavim neke teritorijalne markere kako bi se osecali bolje.

Teritorijalni markeri su svoju ulogu „drzali“ samo mesec dva dana, nakon toga bilo je vreme za mrest i uparivanje i njihova uloga je postala marginalna.... Ono što sam čuo se pokazalo tačnim. Ocellatusi su extremno agresivni i unutar svoje vrste. Čuo sam priče da je mužjak ponekad toliko agresivan prema ostalim mužjacima ali i prema ženkama koje mu se iz nekog razloga ne svide, da ih jednsotavno žive zatrpa u školjci... To sam i svojim očima video u svom akvarijumu, srećom, bio sam prisutan kada je počeo da je zatrpava pa sam je na vreme izvadio i premestio u drugi akvarijum...

Svađa mužjaka i ženke, uobičajen prizor kod ocellatusa

Nakon ovog napada usledeo je napad na jos dve ribe, ali od strane zenke, uklonio sam i njih i samo je jedan par ostao u akvarijumu. Kasnije se uspostavilo da od tri ribe koje sam izvadio imam jednog muzjaka i dve zenke. Zbog malog prostora u kom su boravili dominantna zenka nije zelela da ima „suparnicu“ pa je oterala dve dve...muzjak je oterao subdominatnog muzjaka, nisu mu zenke smetale ali to je „regulisala“ zenka...

Za razliku od multifasciatusa,koji mrze pesak i koji traže iliti više vole akvarijum ispunjem isključivo školjkama i ponekim kamenom, ocellatusi su ribe koje voel da zatrpavaju svoje školjke. Veoma su vešti kopači, često pomeraju svoje školjke dok ih ne nameste u položaj koji im odgovara. Kod odabira školjki za ove ribe, morate se potruditi da nabavite lagane školjke, na primer takozvane vinogradarske, koji su dosta laki (3-6grama) i koje ocellatusi mogu sa lakoćom da pomere i premeste gde im i kad im odgovara. Ukopavanje školjki im je specijalnost a gledanje istog je poseban dozivljaj....

Ocellatusi se mogu drzati u parovima ili u haremima. Jedan muzjak moze da „opsluzuje 2 do 5 zenki,ali za to je potreban dovoljno velik akvarijum. Za dve zenke preporučujem akvarijum 60x30 dok za više ženki, na primer 4-5 preporučujem minimum 100x40, dosta školjki i dosta teritorijalnih markera i par manjih gomilica kamenja za skrivanje.

Što se tiče raspoznavanja polova lakše se mogu odrediti od mnogih drugihLamprologusa,pored veličine koju narastu i robusastog tea, raspoznavanja polova, po mom mišljenju je moguće kada narastu na 3-4 cm.

Na jednoj od gore postovanih slika primetićete da jedna riba na vrhu svojih leđnih peraja ima beličastu boju dok druga ima zlatno/crvenkastu boju, isto tako i na analnom peraju se može videti razlika....Ženka ima tu "beličastu" boju dok muzjak ima "zlatnu ili je ista kao i ostatak peraja. E sad, po tvrdnjama nekih ovo se može opaziti samo kod kvalitetnijih ocellatusa, očito imam takve smiley smiley smiley

"Besna" ženka

U doba mresta ženke su veoma,veoma agresivne jedna prama drugoj, jednostavno žele da pruže najbolju moguću zastitu svojim potomcima. Nakon polaganja ikre, čak i mužjak zna gde mu je mesto i zna da sa ženkom nema šale... Kada se malci „izvale“ i kada počnu da tumaraju po akvarijumu, mužjak im pruža svu mogući zastitu koju im pružiti može. Samo prilazak licem akvarijumu smatra pretnjom i kidiše na staklo kao nenormalan.... U tim slučajevima i ženka i mužjak zajedno brane malce, ali kako se odaljim od akarijuma, ženka opet daje do znanja mužjaku ko je glavni u akvarijumu.....

Iako je ženka ta koja je extremno agresivna kada je u pitanju zaštita malaca isto oliko je agresivnaprema tim istim malcima kada se prema ili kada je spremna za novi mrest. Naime, u periodu kada se sprema za novi mrest, ako su malci koje već ima do 0.5cm, ignorisaće ih i položiće novu ikru, ali ako su malci iznad 0.5 cm (cifre dajem odokativno) smatraće ih pretnjom i teraće ih od sebe, čak i ubiti ako smatra da će tako zaštiti novo leglo...

Mužjak, s druge strane, pazi na male iako ženka ne, i paziće na njih sve dok i oni sami ne postignu veličinu od 1 cm. Kada malci dostignu tu veličinu više neće paziti na njih kao do tada.

„Odradio“ sam jedan mrest, video kako se ponašaju i sada sam ih sve smestio u drugi akvarijum u zajednički akvarijum sa nekim drugim vrstama. Kako mi mrestovi nisu cilj, cilj mi je posmatranje ponašanja riba i uživanje u istima, odvojio sam ih sve, malce sam smestio u poseban akvariju , a za par dana će im konačno biti gotov jedan nov dom u kom ću držati zajedno nekoliko vrsta školjkaša, tu ču da pratim njihovo ponašanje i o istom ću Vas obavestiti.

Lamprologus Ocellatus i Julidochromis gombi usred "prepike" oko teritorije

Lamprologus ocellatus je jedna prelepa riba, agresivna i veoma interesantna. Preporučujem je svakom ko voli školjkaše, mogu se drzati sami u kavarijumu, ali se podjednako uspešno mogu držati u zajedničkom akvarijumu sa drugim vrstama (ne preporučujem ribe iz grupe Lepidolamprologus i Cyphotilapia).

Sposobni su da se sami o sebi brinu ako su dovoljno odrasli i ako im se obezbedi minimum koji im treba za život u takvom akvarijumu (školjke i par kamenčića).

Još par bitnih stvar da napomenem:

- Ukoliko imate ili nameravate da nabavite ocellatuse obavezno im menjajte vodu svakih 7 do 10 dana ali potrudite se da temperatura vode previše ne padne, max oscilacije treba da budu 2-3 stpena, ne više. Oni su jako osetljivi na promenu temperature, i na kvalitet vode. Naravno max 1/3 vode treba da se promeni.

- Kada primetite malce, nemojte menjati vodu 10-15 dana, više puta sam pričao sa ljudima koji su menjali vodu u prvim danima zivota malaca pa su isti uginuli

- Obratite dobro pažnju na ponašanje vaših riba, zatrpavanje jedinki od strane dominantnog mužjaka je dosta česta pojava, ČAK I MEDJU MALCIMA. Upravo sam izvadio jednu školjkicu koju je "dominantni" muzjak sa svojih 1.5cm pokušao da zatrpa u kojoj su dva manja ocellatusa!

- Pokušajte da ih hranite, dok su mali iliti u prvih mesec/dva života nekom živom hranom (artemija, mikro crvi i sl.) ona veoma utiče na rast malaca (školjkaši veoma sporo rastu pogotovo ako se hrane neadekvatnom hranom) a postoje neke teorije da utiče i na kasniju boju ribe, navodno riba koja je kao mala hranjena živom hranom ima lepše boje. Kod ovakvih riba hrana sa "pojačivačima" boje baš i ne utiče nešto previše...

Odprilike to bi bilo to, garant neke stvari nisam napisao, ali kako ih se budem setio tako ću ih podeliti sa vama.

Ocellatusi su majstori u zatrpavanju školjki... ali i ostalih "nepoželjih" ocellatusa

Lečenje Bloat-ovanih riba 3

2009-08-04T13:32:00.005+02:00

Što se tiče davanja hrane,da li da vati hranu za vreme tretmana ili ne i u kojoj količini, to je malo škakljivo pitanje.

Velik broj ciklidaša ne preporučuje da se daje bilo kakva hrana za vreme bilo kakvog lečenja riba,što apsolutno ima smisla, ali, da bih „testirao“ zdravlje svojih Tropheusa ja sam petog dana lečenja, (naravno ne u vreme tretiranja već pre davanja dnevne terapije) dao im malo hrane da vidim kako ko reaguje na istu.

Princip je jednostavan, date im malo hrane i posmatrate ponašanje. Zdrava riba će se otimati oko hrane dok će bolesna da se povuče i ista je neće zanimati...

Sedmog dana sam im ponovo dao malo hrane i opet ih posmatrao.

Ukoliko primetite da jedna ili par riba su nezainteresovane za hranu a da su ostale u sasvim dobroj formi iliti jedu kao pomahnitale, izdvojte tih par riba stavite ih u drugi akvarijum i tretirajte dalje samo njih kako ostale zdrave ribe ne bi morale da prolaze isti tretman bez potrebe.

Eto, tako sam ja spasao svoje Tropheuse, da budem iskren nisam verovao da ću uspeti, pogotovo što sam sam računao doze i sam pripremao iste ali eto, uspeo sam...

APSOLUTNO ne kažem da ova metoda mora da uspe, ali ja sam LIČNO do sada ne jednom, već dva puta lečio Tropheuse ovom metodom, oba puta uspešno a par ljudi koje poznajem, kojima sam dao ovaj „recept“ su takođe uspeli.

Što se tiče bloat-a , definitivno ga je bolje sprečiti nego lečiti, ali kako nije još ni naučno obrađen ne zna se zapravo kakose isti sprečava.

Ja se držim sledećih principa:

- Jednom u mesec dana perem filter masu
- Menjam vodu u količini ¼ ukupne litraže akvarijuma na svakih 7 do 10 dana
- Hranim ih po sistemu 3 dana nedeljno dva puta dnevno, 3 dana nedeljno jednom dnevno i jedan dan ih ne hranim uopšte.
- Koristim hranu sa što je moguće više % spiruline
- jednom nedejno usisam dno akavarijuma
- jednom mesećno im u vodu dodam 7mg ORVAGIL-a na 1L vode s tim da dva dana nakon toga zamenim 1/3 vode.

Toliko o tome, ako neko ima neko pitanje, predlog sugestiju, ima nekih nejasnoća ili se ne slažete sa nečim i imate drugo iskustvo...tu sam... smiley

Nadam se da ovo iskustvo i „recept“ neće nikome trebati al ako zatreba nadam se da će pomoći.

Lečenje Bloat-ovanih riba 2

2009-08-04T13:29:00.005+02:00

DNEVNI RASPORED LEČENJA:

1 dan po sledećem redosledu:
- Pre bilo kakvog stavljanja lekova, izvadite filter masu i operite je u „akvarijumskoj vodi“, slobodno malo bolje nego što to inače činite jer će u pocesu lečenja doći do uginuća i korisnih i štetnih bakterja
- zamenite ¼ vode
- značajno pojačajte aeraciju u akvarijumu, po mogućstvu da bude dva do tri puta jača od uobičajene aeracije koju imate u tom akvarijumu. Pojačanu aeraciju držite od prvog dana lečenja do 5 dana nakon završetka lečenja.
- ORVAGIL u dozi po ranije navedenom uputstvu
- FMC u ranije navedenoj dozi

2 dan po sledećem redosledu:
- ORVAGIL u dozi po ranije navedenom uputstvu
- FMC u gore navedenoj dozi
- NATRIJUM PIKOSULFAT po sistemu 1 tableta od 5mg na 100L vode

3 dan po sledećem redosledu:
- Zamenite 1/3 vode, sipate malo hladniju vodu od one koja je u akvarijumu
- ORVAGIL u dozi po ranije navedenom uputstvu
- NATRIJUM PIKOSULFAT po sistemu 1 i po tableta od 5mg na 100L vode

4 dan po sledećem redosledu:
- ORVAGIL u dozi po ranije navedenom uputstvu
- FMC u ranije navedenoj dozi

5 dan po sledećem redosledu:
- Zamenite 1/3 vode, sipate malo hladniju vodu od one koja je u akvarijumu
- ORVAGIL u dozi po gore navedenom uputstvu
- FMC u ranije navedenoj dozi
- NATRIJUM PIKOSULFAT po sistemu 2 tablete od 5mg na 100L vode

6 dan po sledećem redosledu:
- ORVAGIL u dozi po gore navedenom uputstvu
- FMC u gore navedenoj dozi
- NATRIJUM PIKOSULFAT po sistemu 2 tablete od 5mg na 100L vode

7 dan po sledećem redosledu:
- Zamenite 1/2 vode
- ORVAGIL u dozi po gore navedenom uputstvu
- NATRIJUM PIKOSULFAT po sistemu 2 tablete od 5mg na 100L vode

Nakon sedam dana tretmana ,ako je došlo do poboljšanja, odlično...ako nije nastavite dalje sa tretmanom, sve ponovo s tim da sada KREĆETE NOVI KRUG OD DRUGOG DANA.

Ne preporučujem da idete više od dva kruga tretmana....

Lečenje Bloat-ovanih riba 1

2009-08-04T13:18:00.007+02:00

Bloat, noćna mora svih ljubitelja Tropheusa i Malawi Mbuna.

Definisati bloat je teško, malte ne nemoguće. Da li je to bolest, da li je to stanje ribe, da li je to...ma šta god da je problem je i ubica je vaših ljubimaca, to sigurno, na žalost, znamo.

Veoma je teško objasniti kako je moguće da se ihtiolozi "dovoljno" ne bave ovom „pojavom“ na način na koji bi se očekivalo.

Sama reč „bloat“ znači nadimanje, u bukvalnom i pravom prevodu. Reći da je nadimanje bolest je malo prejako, ali definitivno kao posledicu kod Tropheusa, kao i kod mnogih drugih algojeda,donosi smrt.

Od kako sam zašao u svet akvaristike, kako sam se upoznao sa raznim vrstama ciklida, oduševljavali su me Tropheusi i školjkaši.
Sada sam 99% „u njima.

Kada sam se konačno usudio da nabavim Tropheuse, potrudio sam se da uzmem dobre i kvalitetne primerke. To nije značilo da sam "zaštićen" od bloata. Posle samo nekih mesec i po dana došlo je do prvog bloata...

Prvi susret sa ovom “pojavom“ sam imao sa vrstom Pseudotropheus demasoni, koliko god da sam ih nabavio, koja god da je linija bila u pitanju, uvek sam završavao sa bloat-om...

Poslednji primerci Ps. demasoni (od 80-tak kom koje sam nabavio) su završili kod mog prijatelja Vukašina (aka Silwert) koji ih više nego uspešno drži i razmnožava.

Kada su mi Tropheusi bloatovali, jako sam se razočarao u njih i u sebe. Mislio sam da sam spreman za njih i potrudio sam se da im obezbedim najbolji mogući dom koji im mogu pružiti, i naravno uslove za život. Da li to nije bilo dovoljno, ili se nešto drugo desilo što nisam mogao da predvidim...nisam siguran, crv sumnje je tu...

Vrste Tropheus-a koje sam na početku nabavio su bile:
- Tropheus sp. Ikola
- Tropheus „Golden Kazumba“
- Tropheus duboisi „Maswa“

Na samom početku, dok nisam shvatio šta se zapravo dešava imao sam dve žrtve, dve Kazumbe. Posle njih je usledio „pomor“, žrtve su bile par Maswi i još par Kazumbi.

Uprkos „činjenici“ da su Ikole dosta osetljive, na moju veliku radost nisam imao problema sa njima iako su svi bili u istom akvarjumu, ali sam bio svestan da ako nešto ne uradim, čeka ih ista sudbina.

Čeprkanje po internetu, pomoć par ljudi iz inostranstva i iz naše zemlje koji se razumeju u ove ribe su me naveli na put da pronađem lek za njih.

Biću iskren, kada je sve to počelo nisam želeo da se bavim spasavanjem. Bio sam toliko razočaran i besan da sam želeo da ih ostavim pa šta bude bude, koliko ugine ugine,ako je suđeno da sve uginu....

Petnestak riba je već dobrano zahvatio bloat pa sam morao da hitno intervenišem što sam bolje znao i umeo.Kako bih što je pre moguće intervenisao primenio sam sledeću metodu "pronalaženja" leka:

- saznao sam hemiski sastav američkih i britanskih lekova za bloat,
- potrazio te sastojke u nama dostupnim lekovima u humanoj apoteci,

- jednostavnom formulom izračunao koliko mi čega treba i krenuo sa lečenjem.

Tretman je trajao 7 dana, za tih 7 dana a i posle tretmana nisam izgubio niti jednu jedinu ribu, na moju veliku radost.

Znači, uspeo sam da „pronađem“ lek. Mnogi su možda već koristili ove lekove, ali za mene su bili potpuno novi i oprobao sam se u ovoj valikoj avanturi...

Osnova za lečenje mi je bio lek po imenu ORVAGIL, mnogim akvaristima dobro poznati lek iz humane apoteke. Pored njega koristio sam NATRIJUM PIKOSULFAT (kao laksativ) i FMC, čuveni „univerzalni“ lek koji se koristi u akvaristici.

ORVAGIL je u stvari metronidazolum, ili popularno zvan METRO. Neki ljudi ga hude, neki ga hvale...meni je pomogao, to je ono što ja znam!

ORVAGIL se koristi tako što se na jedan litar akvarijumske vode stavi 7mg ORVAGIL-a. Izračunate koliko litara ima vaš akvarijum, pomnožite tu cifru sa sedam i dobijate traženu dozu. Moj savet vam je da NE STAVLJATE ISPOD 7mg po litri, ALI takođe da NE STAVLJATE IZNAD 8.5mg po litri. Predoziranjem može doći do trovanja ribe a davanjem nedovoljne doze postoji mogućnost da lek ne deluje uopšte ili da samo delimično deluje što najverovatnije nije dovoljno. Takođe vam savetujem da pre topljenja tablete ORVAGIL-a sperete zaštitni film.

NATRIJUM PIKOSULFAT (laksativ) se koristi u dozi od 3 do 5 tableta, zavisi kako koji dan i zavisno od veličine akvarijuma, što ćete videti dole u dnevnom rasporedu lečenja... OBRATITE PAŽNJU da se ovaj lek dobro rastvori pre nego što ga primenite. Najbolje bi bilo da ga nečim zdrobite pre topljenja jer se dosta teško rastapa u vodi.

FMC. Što se tiče ovog leka PREPORUČUJEM DAJANA PET-ov ,jer je po mom saznanju najkoncentrovaniji i najkvalitetniji(makar na našem tržištu). 1ml na 100L vode je doza ovog leka.

Neolamprologus cylindricus

2009-08-04T09:23:00.006+02:00

Lokacija: Jezero Tanganyika
Tvrdoća vode: veoma tvrda
Temperatura: 24-28 °C
Ishrana: Omnivor
Max veličina: do 14 cm
Agresivnost: Srednje agresivan
Način razmnožavanja: ikrašica

Grupa Neolamprologus riba je dosta velika i u istu je "smešten" veoma velik broj riba. Nisam siguran da li će se u skorijoj budućnosti napraviti neka nova "klasifikacija" riba iz ove grupe i napraviti jedna nova grupa ili će neke ribe iz ove grupe "preći" u drugu već uspostavljenu grupu, ali kako to nije redak slučaj i kako ima dosta različitosti unutar ove grupe, svašta možemo očekivati...

Cylindricus je fenomenalna riba i po izgledu i po ponašanju. Kako po izgledu,tako i po ponašanju slićna je daleko poznatijim neolamprologus leleupi-ijima.

Neolamprologus cylindricus u pratnji dva leleupija

Cylindricus je popularna riba kod hobista, njegovi "prstenovi" i topredo oblik vas ne mogu ostaviti ravnodušnim.

Mužjaci rastu do 14cm dok su ženke manje, do 10-11cm. U pitanju je veoma teritorijalna riba i agresivna prema pripadnicima svoje vrste, ali ne toliko agresivna poput nekih Neolamprologina.

Cylindricus-i žive u parovima, dominantni mužjak će u većini slučajeva ubiti ostale mužjake čim se upari ukoliko je akvarijum u kom ih držite ispod 90cm dužine te je preporučljivo da se uklone ostali primerci ove vrste nakon uparenja.

Ukoliko želite da držite više parova ovih riba, morate im obezbediti dovoljan broj skrovišta. Cylindricusi žive u pećinama i rupama u kojima se zavlače, polažu ikru i podižu mlađ. Što se tiče njihove teritorijalnosti, ne zahtevaju velik prostor, povrsina od cirka 30x30cm, uključiv "pećinu" u tu površinu je prostor koji će par braniti od ostalih riba.

Nisu zahtevni po pitanju podloge, ali ipak preporučujem da im se obezbedi sitniji pesak ili kamenčići. sve im je prihvatljivo dokle god mogu da "kopaju" i prave sebi skrovišta. Obratite pažnju da ukoliko im ne obezbedite odgovarajuće skrovište (neku vrstu pećinice)u stanju su da kopaju ispod kamenja kako bi sebi napravili odgovarajuće skrovište. U ovom slučaju može doći do pomeranja kamenja koje može biti kobno za vaš akvarijum....

Cylidricusi su kao i svi ostali ciklidi, oportunisti....ukoliko imate manjih riba u akvarijumu veoma lako mogu postati njihov plen .

Što se tiče mresta, ukoliko vam je to interesantno ili cilj držanja ove ribe potrebno je odvojiti uparene ribe i smestiti ih u akvarijumne veći od 50x40 (govorim o površini dna) i u njemu cete u kratkom roku imati prinove. Za razliku od leleupija, po mojim saznanjima i iskustvu, cylindricusi imaju manji broj potomaka po mrestu. Možda ova informacija nije u potpunosti tačna ali kod mene je takav slučaj. Veoma su dobri roditelji, ženka je agresivnija od mužjaka. Na nekoliko mesta sam pročitao da se u jednom akvarijumu mogu naći više generacija cylindricusa odjednom, nisam imao priliku do sada da tako nešto lično vidim ali u skorije vreme i tome se nadam.

Kao i kod svih Tanganyika ciklida potrebno je održavati jedan određen nivo higijene akvarijuma kako bi ste imali zdrave i lepe ribe.Redovno menjanje vode, prosejavanje tj. čišćenje peska i sl. su standardne stvari koje treba raditi.

Što se tiče ishrane cyilidricusa,osnovna hrana im je proteinska, preporučujem mešanje dve ili više različitih vrsta hrana. prihvataju hranu u svim oblicima.

Jedna interesantna stvar mi je zapala za oko, primetio sam da apsolutno ne podnose Julidochromis transcriptus-e koje drzim u istom akvarijumu sa njima. Predpostavljam da je to zbog oblika i boje koje su u neku ruku slične kod ove dve vrste, možda grešim, ali sam siguran da je netrpeljivost prisutna. Bilo je tu više svađa između ove dve vrste, ali nakon određenog vremena i broja čarki, niti jedan Transcriptus ne zalazi više u njihov deo akvarijuma. Postoji još jedan poencijalni razlog ove netrpeljivosti, koji mi je napomenuo čuveni Joca, vlasnik prodavnice JZH iz Beograda, a to je stanište ove dve ribe. Obe imaju iste ili slične prohteve po pitanju staništa, te je veoma lako moguće da je razlog za netrpeljivost borba oko teritorije. Moram da napomenem da nisam imao priliku da posmatram njihovo ponašanje sa nekim drugim Julidochromis-ima.

Lamprologus signatus

2009-08-03T12:17:00.008+02:00

Latinski naziv: Lamprologus signatus
Veličina: mužjaci max 5.5 cm ženke do 4 cm
PH : 7.5 - 8
dH: 10 - 12
Temperatura vode: 25 - 28 °C

Kada sam se prvi put susreo sa ovim ciklidom, nisam baš bio preterano oduševljen njime. Naime, imao sam želju da nabavim školjkaše ali sam konkretno želeo similis-e ili multifasciatus-e, želeo sam da napravim koloniju ali, kako ih nije bilo ponuđeni su mi Lamprologus signatus-i o kojima nisam apsolutno ništa znao te se nisam baš oduševio time. Ovo su trebali da mi budi prvi školjkaši i to je bio još jedan razlog zašto sam bio skeptičan prema njima...

˝Uzmi ih, veruj mi nećeš se pokajati...˝ poslušah čoveka i bio je upravu...čak šta više.

Ja sam nabavio 3 komada jednog mužjaka i dve ženke. Ove ribe žive u parovima ili u haremima (jedan mužjak i više ženki - max 3 ženke).

Ženka Lamprologus signatus-a

Što se tiče razlike u polovima, ono što je veoma interesantno kod ovog školjkaša je činjenica da se izuzetno lako raspoznaju polovi ribe. Mužjak je veći i naraste do 5-6cm, što je sasvim pristojna veličina za jednog školjkaša, dok su ženke obično nešto manje (3-4cm). Muzjaci imaju vertikalne pruge po telu, ženke ih uopšte nemaju. Ženama je stomak blago žućkaste ili ljubičaste boje, kod genitalne papille ima ˝fleku˝ koja bi trebala u periodu mresta da bude malte ne crna.

Mužjak Lamprologus signatus-a

Mužjak je bio izuzetno agresivan te ih je u početku obe oterao od sebe, da bi se kasnije odlučio za jednu damu a na moju žalost, druga ženka, skrhana tugom je izvršila samoubistvo kroz neverovatno malu rupicu na poklopcu akvarijuma... kasnije sam saznao da ovo nije retka pojava kod školjkaša kada ih neko "previše" maltretira...

Šta im je potrebno? Kao i kod svih drugih školjkaša najbitnije im je obezbediti dovoljan broj školjki u kojima bi se udomili, ali oni nisu kao većina školjkaša. Za razliku od ostalih oni svoje školjke ne zatrpavaju u pesak, malte ne se ni nebave peskom, u njihovom prirodnom staništu ima više mulja i blata u kom se te školjke nalaze te nisu u mogućnosti da iste zakopaju. Taj instinkt im nije tolik razvijen te im je dovoljno samo dati školjku odgovarajućih dimenzija.

Jedna stvar je takođe interesantna, za razliku od ostalih školjkaša,školjkaši su inače ikrašice, ženka ne lepi svoju ikru za školjku već je polaže u istu!

Pročitao sam da ženka, po potrebi, prenese ikru iz jedne u drugu školjku kada smatra da je ikra ugrožena ili da je previše ima. Smatram da je ovo jedan veoma interesantan instinkt preživljavanja. Naime, veća je verovatnoća da ako podeli ikru na nekoliko manjih grupica, u nekoliko školjki, da će jedna ili više njih preživeti nego ako se sva ikra nalazi na jednom jedinom mestu ilit u jednoj školjci.

Iako se ne bakću peskom podloga treba da bude od najsitnijeg peska koji možete naći, moja preporuka: kvarcni pesak. U akvarijumu u kom bi ste držali signatuse, možete držati i biljke, jer ih signatus-i neće dirati,ali morate voditi računa o tome da je signatusima potrebna dosta tvrda voda te shodno tome u tom kavarijumu se mogu držati samo biljke koje mogu da se drže u tvrdoj vodi.

Najbolje ih je držati u posebnom akvarijumu ako imate mogućnost za tako nešto a ukoliko nemate, onda vam peporučujem držanje signatusa sa nekim manjim vrstama ili sa vrstama (Julidochromisi, Lamprologusi, manji Neolamprologusi...)

Ja sam ih u početku držao zajedno sa Altolamprologus ˝sumbu dwarf˝- ovima ali je bilo čarki jer je akvarijum u kom su bili ipak samo za jednu vrstu riba (njegova veličina nije dozvoljavala držanje više vrsta riba pogotovo agresivnijih vrsta).

Akvarijum tj. dimenzije akvarijuma koji bi Vam preporučio za samostalno držanje ove vrste je 40x30 (govorim o površini dna). To je sasvim dovoljna površina za držanje jednog para, ali ako nameravate da držite više komada (po principu harema 1 mužjak i par ženki - max 3 ženke) potreban vam je veći akvarijum, 60x30 ili recimo 70x30.

Mužjak i ženka su u vreme mresta veoma agresivni. Kada položi ikru, ženka provede 24-48 sati malte ne non stop unutar odabrane školjke. Mužjak je u to doba extremno agresivan, samo pojavljivanje pored akvarijuma izaziva bes i mužjak bez straha kidiše na staklo. Ovo je jedan od "najboljih načina da saznate da li imate mrest u akvarijumu ili ne. Intenzitet napada na staklo i neumoljivost mužjaka su neverovatni. Iako je ovo dosta interesantno za posmatranje, ne preporučujem Vam da ih uznemiravate jer kože doći do povrede mužjaka a i ...prosto rečeno nije lepo ih maltretirati na ovaj način, ma koliko nam to bilo interesantno.

Tipična "ofarbanost" ženkinog stomaka pred mrest

Preporuka koju daju iskusni ciklidaši je da se Lamprologus signatus drži odvojen u posebnom akvarijumu u kom se može očekivati i mrest ali ako vam mrest nije prioritet, možete ih držati i sa drugim, ranijenavedenim vrstama.

Imao sam priliku da posmatram i detaljno zabeležim ponašanje mog para signatusa kod 3 mresta. Svaka prirpema mresta je bila identična, ženka dobija specifičnu plavičastu boju na stomaku i kod ventralnog otvora, mužjak se pokazuje u najboljem svetlo, non stop narogušen dok ga ženka mami u školjku. Sam čin polaganja ikre i osemenjavanje iste nisam imao priliku da vidim,ali koliko sam upoznat malo ko je to video.

Što se tiče malaca, nakon par dana će se pojaviti na ulazu školjke u kojoj su se izmrestili, dan nakon toa napuštaju školjku i kreću sa tumaranjem p oakvarijumu...na svaki znak potencijalne opasnosti, dobijaju signal od oca i majke koji su uvek tu negde oko njih i paze ih. Na taj signal, malci ili uleću u najbližu školjku ili se toliko primire da se jedva mogu razaznati od peska.

Mužjak i ženka, ovog puta u paru, kidišu na staklo tj. na uljeza i potencijalnog napadača.

Jedna bitna napomena, ja sam "platio" cenu za svoje neznaje pa nemorate vi da platite istu...

Odprilike 20 dana (ponekad) a češće mesec i po do dva meseca nakon mresta ženka je spremna za novi mrest i onda je veoma agresivna prema predhodnom mrestu. Ukoliko su malci iz predhodnog mresta manji od 0,5cm ženka ih neće dirati/terati/ubiti, ali ako su malci preko 0,5cm ona će ih terati od sebe i najčešćem slučaju ubiti. Ovo se najviše menifestuje u manjim akvarijumima gde malci nemaju gde da pobegnu (ne mogu da "izađu" sa teritorije svoje majke).

Mužjaci, sa druge strane, su spremni da brane malce malte ne sve dok ne dodju na nekih 2-2,5cm!!

Dakle, kada vidite da su malci oko 0,5cm, ili vadite malce iz tog akvarijuma, ukoliko je to uopšte izvodljivo, ili vadite roditelje, AKO ŽELITE DA SAČUVATE MREST ILI AKO IMATE AKVARIJUM MANJIH DIMENZIJA.

Što se ishrane tiče, mora im se davati hrana koja pada na dno jer se oni drže samo dna i retko kada će krenuti na hranu koja je ˝plutajuća˝. Ishrana im je proteinska i prihvataju sve vrste suve hrane. Za malce nemate piotrebe da nabavljate neku posebnu hranu manje granulacije, dovoljno je da hranu koju dajete odrasloj ribi izmrvite i date im da jedu. Istina je da artemija, mirocrvi i sl. su fenomenalni za sve malce i odrasle ribe ali ukoliko niste u mogućnosti da istu gajite, nemojte se nervirati, vaše ribe će malo sporje rasti ali neće biti ništa lošije od drugih koji jedu "živu" hranu.

Sto se tiče održavanja akvarijuma, sve paramtre kao i kod svih Tanganyika ciklida treba ispoštovati, redovno menjanje vode, određena tvrdoća vode...

Evo slika mojih malih ratobornih tigrova koje sam moram priznati baš zavoleo…preporučujemo ovu ribu svim ljubiteljima školjkaša.